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Note: these archives were compiled from past Parking Lot Planet Forums.
The answers and opinions are those of the posters. Things may have changed
since then, so be sure to get up to date information from the
current Parking Lot Planet forum
Machines – Troubleshooting and Repair
Striper Failing Help
Graco Pressure Control
New 3900 tracking badly???
Trouble with my new Graco 3900
Powerliner 6000 problem
Honda
won't start
Oil filling for Hondas
$42.00
Mistake
Graco 5900 Front Caster??
Will only paint
a 1" line!
3900 getting clogs!
Engine Replacement
Gun
Rebuilding
Parts for older stripers...
Wavy Lines
Thinning
Paint
Engine Speed on 3900
Pressure Settings on Graco 5900
Striper Failing Help
From:
Date: 11/21/99 9:21:47 PM
Yesterday when I was striping with my line laser 5000 it started acting strange.
All of a sudden it acted like it was running out of paint in the pail, the pump
kept running as if it was not getting any paint. My line got real thin then wide
again. Something is really gone wrong with it. Does my pump need rebuilding?
help
From: Cormac
Date: 11/21/99 9:22:22 PM
Sounds like it needs to be repacked. The pump's inability to stall combined with
the fluctuating pressures indicates a failed ball/seat or packing set. I'm
assuming the filters are clean and nothing is stuck in one of the balls/seats.
Packings should always be replaced immediately on noticing there is a problem.
If you continue and try to finish the job or the next couple of jobs, you will
find that that little bypassing/leaking within the pump will quickly wear the
hard parts. Packing kits are inexpensive, couple that with worn rods and
cylinders and the price goes way up.
From: cb
Date: 11/21/99 9:22:51 PM
it has happened to me too many times, check your paint intake hose at the bottom
of the pump there is a 90 degree metal block with a ball in it. take the block
off then clean out the block until the ball frees up, its probably stuck
From: stripe
Date: 11/21/99 9:23:16 PM
Not a circuit board problem - it was running out of paint...at least the pump
was, because of blockage in the suction side of the pump. The inlet screen is
the most likely place, but could be in the suction hose or in the pump itself.
Caused by clumps of solids in the paint.
From: sdechene
Date: 11/21/99 9:23:44 PM
Me too the first time it happened. =O What you have is a defective pc board. It
happens. I got one straight out of box. The pump does not get the relay from the
sensor to stop. Be careful ! This can be quite dangerous. In the short term, try
zeroing your pressure control dial each time you turn the machine off. Then,
each time you fire up the machine again, wait about 4 seconds before bringing
the pressure back up (there's usually a built in delay). You DO need to replace
the circuit board though. Wait 'til you see the cost ! haha
From:
Date: 11/21/99 9:24:20 PM
Thanks to all who gave their input on my failing striper. It was dirty and had a
chunk of paint in it. Sure is good to have this help. Thanks again.
From:
Date: 1/8/00 6:52:22 PM
Be prepared to spend lots of time in the repair shop when you run airless
equipment, not only with the expensive Graco's as the postings above suggest.
From:
Date: 1/11/00 2:42:28 PM
We al have our own preference to what we stripe with. I happen to like Graco as
I feel because it is airless I do not have to thin my paint. I could be wrong
but if you spray straight paint and it is not mixed with air or thinned the
customer gets solid "Paint" to the pavement. He will call me back everytime. The
job last longer. As for the repairs any equipment will need repairs if not taken
care of properly.
From: DBATTEY
Date: 12/2/00 10:56:52 AM
We run airlessco machines and they rarely need to be repaired. We currently have
5 of them and have had almost no trouble from them. (we have run these for
years) They do a very good job and we have been very pleased with them. They
also are less expensive than a lot of the others.
New 3900 tracking badly???
From: BobbyTox@aol.com
Date: 4/1/00 9:36:41 PM
I've just been practicing with water but the machine tracks badly to the
left....I have to manually manipulate it to the right to keep the lines "fairly"
straight....I was under the impression that you could basically push it and it
would go straight...Is something wrong or is this just normal?????
From: jpanz
Date: 4/2/00 10:12:11 PM
A couple of things I have found to cause the machine to go wacky. 1.Check the
tire pressure in the rear wheels, make sure they are the same. 2. The front
caster on the new 3900 &5900 have an adjustable lock on it. Chances are the
front caster is not locked in at 90 degrees. If you look in you instructions it
should tell you how to correct this problem.
Jim
Fat Track won't track!
From: SPRAYMAN110
Date: 8/23/00 6:32:55 PM
THE TWO NEW FAT TRACKS THAT I INSTALLED WON'T TRACK STRAIGHT!!!! THE RIMS ARE
NOT TRUE. SOMEBODY PLEASE HELP. ANY INFORMATION WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. JOE
From: Fonz
Date: 8/25/00 12:49:12 AM
Doggonit Joe!! I remember I had to adjust the front wheel but I forgot exactly
how I did it. Start with a nice straight chalk line on the most level piece of
ground you can find. Hand tighten the bolts on the wheel, engage the wheel lock
and run the machine down the line. I don't remember an adjusting screw. I think
I just bumped the wheel around a little and tried it out. Luckily I got it right
the first time, I do remember that. So, a little trial and error with the screws
till you get it lined up right. Good Luck !! Fonz
From: SPRAYMAN110
Date: 8/25/00 8:57:23 PM
WOW!!! I'll have to agree with everybody now. They are the cats meow. You sold
me fonz. Did the 2nd.coat right smack over the top of the others, wow. Thanks to
all. Joe
Graco 3500 Tracking
From: RP Parking Solutions
Date: 12/20/99 1:21:48 PM
We have two Graco's a 3000 and a 3500 and we used to love both machines. However
lately our 3500 is not tracking as straight as it did when we first acquired it.
Our 3000 will paint straighter lines with hardly any effort. My questions are do
any of you have the new fat track system installed on your graco's? And if so
how do you like it. Doe's it reduce the amount of movement typically associated
with a pivoting front wheel or doe's ours sound like it is worn out? Any help to
make this good machine track straight again is greatly appreciated. Oh Yeah Fonz,
we even stopped going to the bar before we used it. Thanks, RP
From: jpanz
Date: 12/20/99 2:43:22 PM
I had the same problem with my 5000. I did replace the caster with the Fat Track
system and it worked GREAT until the cable snapped.(Graco did warranty the
cable, thanks comac)
I think it rides over the bumps better then the old wheel.
And I also like the adjustable pin it comes with, so if the locking pin wears
out all you do is flip it over. Check the Graco site for more details.
Good Luck JIm
From: RandyV
Date: 12/20/99 4:39:10 PM
We noticed a lot of slop in the caster on our 3500 after only a year of use.
However, we are lucky enough to have a machine shop and we simply made a new pin
with larger square dimensions on the locking pin. That tightened it up
considerably.
When it is needed again, we might invest in a retrofit to
the fat-trak (I assume it can be retrofitted to the older models).
From: Cormac
Date: 12/25/99 9:10:23 PM
How old is the 3500? Is it still under warranty? If so, have it replaced. If
not, the Fat Track system is the best upgrade you can add to a 3500 or 5000.
Virtually no looseness in the caster/pin mechanism plus you will get a greater
sense of stability and balance. You line may become more straight and you may
even work faster.
Trouble with my new Graco 3900
From: BobbyTox@aol.com
Date: 5/15/00 7:55:16 PM
My new 3900 is giving me fits. It almost never sprays a crisp line, seems
"finicky" on paint and the lines are "scalloping" and heavy. I tried to do a
double line striping and the second line would only spray about a two inch
width...that’s pressure all the way up and engine full throttle, using two 317
tips...its never sprayed right since I bought it and this is the second time in
the shop. The pump seems "sporadic and erratic" sometimes its strokes smoothly
and other times seems to stick...I’m using SW paint...Around here its known as
the "headache 3900", one of my helpers recently took out a 15 year old airlessco
with a diaphragm pump cause he didn’t want to fool with the Graco, my symptoms
seem strangely similar to those experienced by "fonz" in an earlier question
about pressure control...Well its back in the shop....
From: ytoes
Date: 5/15/00 8:11:09 PM
I experienced the same problem. Tell your service dealer to check the gun. Bad
needle travel or damaged diffuser can cause these problems.
From: Fonz
Date: 5/15/00 8:52:49 PM
I didn't think the darn thing would support two guns!!!...I believe you. But I
cannot believe Graco would put out a pump that didn't. The 3900 is supposed to
put out about 1 /4 gallons per minute. That’s about the out put of the old 5500.
They advertise being able to spray a 24 inch line with the machine. That's two
621's. No way could my machine do that !!! NO BALLS!!!!!!!! My 3500 is a better
set -up. I'm convinced the trouble is in the control. I cannot believe Graco
doesn't know how to build a pump. My lines are crisp and sharp and a consistent
width. No hour-glass and no lead in bulge at the start of the line. But I gotta
thin the paint, about 16 oz to 5 gallons. That’s Bull!!!! It handles like a
dream even with a loaded 15 gallon tank............JUST NO
BALLS!!!!!.................and no GRACO!!!...I don’t want to take it to a
shop!!!..How about you come to me!!!!!........and bring a pressure gage with
you!!!...Damn thing should have one on it anyway!!!!!
From: TEAMC
Date: 5/15/00 9:51:44 PM
NO TROUBLE WITH MY 3000 (GRACO) BUT I AGREE WITH FONZ ALL OF THEM SHOULD HAVE A
PSI GAUGE ON THEM.
From: Robert Liles
Date: 5/16/00 6:17:45 AM
Our 3900 almost always makes a perfect line. And we have painted miles of double
lines using 319 tips and both s/w chlorinated rubber and 1952d waterbased. Only
trouble I ever had was a defective circuit board, under warranty, replaced it
myself in 5 minutes. I agree, a pressure gauge should be standard equipment. And
Fonz, a gauge near the gun would be useful too. You may have a flow restriction
somewhere.
From:
Date: 5/16/00 6:45:11 AM
When running with a pressure gauge what is right pressure setting on the gauge
when spraying?
From: Don
Date: 5/16/00 7:47:28 AM
According to Graco specs for the new 3900 max tip for 1 gun .034 for 2 guns .024
@ a max output of 1.15 gpm @ max pressure of 3300 psi. Claims to spray "most"
traffic paints without thinning. There's always a lot of talk about comparisons
but the bottom end SpeeFlo (now Titan) PowrLiner 4000 specs. tip size for 1 gun
.36 for 2 guns .26 max output 1.3 gpm @ 3000 psi. Claims to handle "all" traffic
paints no matter the thickness without thinning. (OK that's my traditional plug
for SpeeFlo) All performance issues are related to a lot of factors put
together, tip size, pressure, type of paint, correct filter sizes for paint
type, check valve function, or any combination of it all. With any pump machine
be sure not to run 1 gun off the short hose if you have a 2 gun set up. The long
hose is needed to minimize pulsation. Has anybody used the new locking caster
and reversible handlebar features of a 3900?... those are the 1st thing from
Graco to really interest me since these were long-time defects missing in most
striping machines today. It looks like they would be very handy.
From: Robert
Date: 5/16/00 6:51:30 PM
If you're looking to reverse the handle bars in order to have more
maneuverability for painting tight curves, just swing the gun around 180 degrees
so its next to the rear wheel. Works great.
From: Cormac
Date: 5/16/00 4:27:24 PM
You should never own a "headache anything". Sounds like you have a bad circuit
board. Have they replaced it yet? Have they put a test gauge on it yet to
confirm that you do in fact have 3300 PSI. Other than that you may have
something odd or a defective part as YTOES states. I suggest you call Graco
direct and ask for the number of their local rep. to get his recommendation for
the "best" service center in your area. If the "best" service center in the area
cannot resolve the issues, call the head of Graco's service department, tell him
what you have been through and what you have done to resolve it in the field and
ask for a replacement 3900. I suspect your service center is not up to snuff.
Fonz, you should do the same. No one should live with a headache.
Powerliner 6000 problem
From: ET
Date: 6/6/00 11:00:44 PM
I have a problem with my Powerliner 6000. At the top and bottom of the pump
stroke, my striper sprays an hourglass pattern. It's seems like it loses
pressure at those instances and then quickly recovers. I've tried everything I
can think of, new tips, different hoses, checked the suction tube and bypass
valve, filters, hydraulic oil, pressure settings, paint. This problem can come
and go at anytime during a job. Please give me some ideas about what could be
wrong. Thanks ET
From: Don
Date: 6/7/00 9:27:14 AM
We've never had the problem you mention (as with most
stripers you can sometimes get a slight "hourglass" at the start of a
stripe...not related to pump stroke position). All I can say is we normally use
Titan 1704 striping tips, we don't thin paint, and we run at about 80% pressure
with one gun, 100% with two or extra large tips, always full engine speed. We
move fast as far as striping speed, thus the somewhat higher than "normal"
pressure settings as related to tip size. If you've checked filters (hydraulic,
paint line, and gun)pump lube oil is good (not dirty or low), have a long hose
on the gun you are using for 1 gun stripes, etc. you've done about all you can
do "in th field". If your problem still seems to be tied to the pump stroke I
would suggest talking to your service center, it could be wear in a check valve
or seat for example, but a stroke related problem would probably be diagnosed
quicker by a trained service person.
From: greg
Date: 6/7/00 10:41:08 AM
make sure you have 50 feet or more of hose on your main striping gun.
From: ytoes
Date: 6/7/00 6:13:18 PM
Other than the obvious, you may need to remove the lower and make sure the balls
are seating. Paint or chips can collect around the seats and prevent the ball
from seating correctly. This can cause pressure loss at the top and bottom.
Worst case scenario, repack the pump, it may just be time.
From: Cormac
Date: 6/11/00 10:38:57 AM
How old is the machine? Waterborne paint? When does it hourglass: top of the
stroke, bottom or both? Do you have enough Hydraulic oil? When was the last time
you changed the hydraulic oil and filter? Are the paint filters and strainers
and suction hose in good shape. And of course the pump lower as Ytoes stated. If
all else fails, add water. The key question to answer for easy diagnosis, is
WHEN in the stroke does it pulse, top, bottom, or both. Do you have a good
service center nearby? Sarcastic comment to Ken/Stripes: Could it be possible
that even hydraulic pumps have issues? Sorry, couldn't resist.
From: ken
Date: 6/11/00 3:02:25 PM
Good shot! LOL!
I had a weird problem recently much similar to the one
described. I did everything in the book. After changing the gun filter, I
finally tried swapping out the whole gun. The problem went away. I found the
plastic end piece of a line filter stuck down in the gun's filter barrel. Sheesh!
Really had me scratching my head.
From: ken
Date: 6/13/00 12:44:04 PM
Oh! 'Forgot to point out...it wasn't the trusty hydraulic pump :-) ka-chunk
ka-chunk!!!
Honda
won't start
From: City
Date: 7/22/00 5:22:17 PM
Always be prepared by keeping a quart of oil with your striping supplies. It may
save you time and aggravation by understanding that Honda engines have an
automatic shut off if the oil level gets too low. One way of preventing this is
to always keep up with maintenance. A sure sign is when you’re striping up or
down hill and the machine seems to sputter or simply wont start up. Hummm... the
gas tank is full... what could it be? Then a little voice should tell you to
check the oil. It could save you priceless time by knowing this tid bit of info.
From: ken
Date: 7/26/00 4:56:51 PM
Great advise. I also have had a problem when making fast turns that cause the
oil to slosh to the side causing the auto kill switch to shut down the motor. If
you don't have any oil handy and you are sure you aren't too low, you can
disconnect the male female connector on the loose wire that goes to the oil
switch. It will get you by until you can get some oil. But, be careful and watch
the oil level especially if it is using oil.
Oil filling for Hondas
From: jpanz
Date: 7/27/00 12:15:36 PM
A little tip to get oil into the Honda engines. Use the top of a water sport
bottle. The kind where you have to pull the top to open it. The oil is thick
enough that you can turn the bottle on the side and it will not leak out. And I
am sure everyone has dumped more oil on the chassis then in the motor.
Jim
From: ken
Date: 7/27/00 8:37:37 PM
Great idea Jim. I'm always pouring oil on the ground when trying to add it to my
popcorn 3100 machine. I think they were giggling when they designed the paint
bracket to cover the access to the oil plug.
From: Don
Date: 7/28/00 7:03:00 AM
Yes, Thanks Jim... (duh why didn't I think of that?)We own lots of Honda powered
equipment and it's not just stripers... ALL manufacturers make it as hard to add
oil to Hondas as possible. I think most pavement equipment companies have a
dedicated engineer whose job is to figure out how to make it difficult to do
routine service and repairs and almost impossible to reach the one bolt on any
piece of equipment that seems to need to be tightened all the time.
From: City
Date: 7/28/00 6:20:07 PM
I take an empty oil quart and slice a 1 inch slit down the side starting from
the top and stop before reaching the bottom. this way you can use it as a make
shift funnel, set the neck at the oil fill hole and just pour the oil in the
slot near the base and the oil will flow out the neck.
From: sdechene
Date: 7/31/00 3:41:52 PM
I actually don't mind spilling a little oil on the tray. I wipe it up with a
rag, then use the oiled rag to wipe down the rest of the machine. A thin coat of
oil over the entire machine helps to keep any drops of paint that I might have
spilled from sticking. Then all I have to do for my monthly cleaning of the
machine is to spray everything down with Simple Green, wait a couple minutes,
and then fire up the pressure washer. =)
From: ken
Date: 7/31/00 10:58:29 PM
I have an almost new powr liner 4000 and another one that had about a hundred
thousand miles on it when I bought it from Robert three years ago. Both have so
much paint on them its hard to tell them apart. Needless to say, I don't spend
much time cleaning.
From: City
Date: 8/2/00 10:53:39 AM
Parking Garages have plenty of dust which seems to build up in those hard to
reach places, like the cooling fins of the engine. I have been using carburetor
cleaner on my striper which seems to cut through anything in its path, also good
for any moving part before lubing.
$42.00
Mistake
From: City
Date: 8/5/00 11:14:48 PM
Recently I purchased a used Graco with a second gun knowing that someday I would
have a use for the extra gun. That day finally came so I decided to hook it up a
few days before the job to get the kinks (if any) worked out. It worked like a
champ. I striped a few jobs prior, never using the second gun, but left it
attached for the up coming big day. That day finally came and ... nothing, why
doesn't the second gun spray? after careful inspection I found the problem. I
ran a wire down the hose and halfway it stopped. I had a CLOG!!!! Seems the
paint had trickled down the hose while I was spraying with the first gun. Common
sense right? $42.00 for a 6 foot replacement hose. I will never make that
mistake again.
From: City
Date: 8/5/00 11:19:26 PM
Forgot to mention, I had to stripe all 260 double line spaces, One Line At A
Time...
From: Fonz
Date: 8/6/00 12:54:02 PM
Hmmmm?????........I would think if the gun was under charge at least
once.....completely full of paint , you would have been ok. Now if it was a
clean gun and line and you just attached it and never used it, now that I could
understand as causing your problem.
From: Don
Date: 8/6/00 8:15:49 AM
Yep... You live and learn... if you leave a second gun attached you have to
flush it's line even if you don't spray with it to prevent the clog. It's also a
good idea to flush the valve where the 2nd gun attaches (on machines that have
them) so you don't build up a little clog in the valve housing that gets pushed
into the gun when you open the valve.
From: Randy
Date: 8/6/00 8:23:26 AM
I guess my first question would have to be - How do you clean the machine
without purging the second line? You need to purge the paint that gets pushed up
into the beginning of that line every time you clean the machine or change
colors. If you did this, your color changes and cleanings would go much faster
(I can change colors or clean the machine in 10 minutes). This is time well
spent to know your equipment is clean and 100% operable.
From: ken
Date: 8/7/00 8:49:02 AM
I understand how air in the lines would cause the clog you described. Just out
of curiosity, were you using a latex or water borne set fast paint? I always
leave paint in all machines and keep them lightly charged (when I'm using
alkyd). Seems the only time any problems arise is after using latex.....(another
reason we don't choose to do much restriping). Petroleum bases don't seem to set
up as quickly inside the machinery.
Comments?
From: Don
Date: 8/8/00 7:46:55 AM
Out of curiosity... what has latex got to do with restriping? It would seem much
more likely to me to do nothing but restriping if you use oil-bases since latex
is normally used for new asphalt/sealcoating/etc. (We have found it often sticks
better on new concrete also)I don't get it, and was just wondering.
From: ken
Date: 8/8/00 8:55:21 AM
Sorry...I wasn't clear. I don't solicit restripe jobs. I have a couple of
contractors I like to keep happy when they do asphalt or sealcoating....'bout
the only time I "restripe"
From:
Date: 8/9/00 12:04:14 AM
WHAT IS WRONG WITH USING LATEX FOR RESTRIPING? THAT IS ALL WE SPRAY ALL YEAR
LONG. JOE
From: ken
Date: 8/9/00 3:39:40 AM
Again, the main reason for not using latex is because it "seems" to set up in
machines even if there is no air in the systems. Our machines stay independently
loaded with different colors (usually chlorinated rubber or plain alkyd) so
there is no set up or clean up time wasted.
Another biggy for us not using latex....with latex, I have
to stop and clean stencils because they get drippy, sloppy and messy faster than
with alkyd (especially CR). It is therefore harder to use a Lazy Liner for the
stencils because you can't readily stack them when you need to at the end of a
long run. CR skims over almost instantly so it is possible to stack stencils and
move them quickly and easily. When the job is complete and allowing the stencils
to dry completely, they stencils will almost clean themselves if (especially if
they are pretreated with WD40.) Evenly layered CR will peel like a paper shell
pecan.
I also like the way CR molecules seem to "hold hands" and
flex instead of chipping.
Thanks, Don, for your comment about latex staying better on
new concrete. Maybe I'll reevaluate the pros and cons of latex because most of
our work is on concrete.
Thanks all, ken
From: Don
Date: 8/9/00 7:01:04 AM
Just to clarify... Most pro-stripers understand about the adverse effects that
an out-of-whack alkali content of particular concrete batches can have on
striping paint performance (mainly on new or newer concrete) We've found that on
some of these situations latex is the only thing that will stick. Also if you
use SW paints (and we do mostly) the color of their latex yellow fades far less
than their alkyd paints. To me C-Rubber paints have always been the biggest
pains to use (I like conventional alkyds or latex) but many people prefer them.
It just shows how personal opinions differ.
From: jpanz
Date: 8/7/00 10:43:23 AM
I had the same problem one time. What I did to prevent this from happing again
is I removed the hose from the filter housing and installed a ball valve in the
housing and the hose after the valve. After flushing the 2nd gun clean, flip the
valve off and you are set until the next time you need the gun. Or if you do not
use the 2nd gun a lot its easy to remove or install.
Jim
Graco 5900 Front Caster??
From: LazerLiner
Date: 8/30/00 4:14:19 AM
We had a little mishap with our 5900 the other day (it rolled about 50ft &
crashed into a curb) and we cracked a part to the front caster. I called my
local rep and he said that he thinks we have to purchase a new caster for $350.
It looks to me that we can replace the broken piece, which is a small silver
rectangular piece with two bolts through it, for about $20... Has anyone
repaired one of these? Is there a caster parts manual? The manuals that I have
show only the caster as on entire unit, not broken down into its components.
Thanks.......
From: Don
Date: 8/30/00 7:58:09 AM
We all know I don't use Graco personally but you raise a good question. After
all, any equipment manufacturer buys those parts somewhere. As for Grainger they
have some casters made by a company called Albion. None of the ones in their
catalog match paint machines (they have swivel locks and pneumatic wheels, but
not on the same caster) but from looking I'd bet Albion makes a model that does.
Their factory # is 1-800-835-8911 you might ask them if they make casters for
Graco. If they do, that # can also give you a distributor. If not, LL you might
take your part to the nearest Grainger, they have some replacement parts for
their casters, one might be what you need.
From: After Midnight
Date: 8/30/00 2:16:35 PM
The manual that came with my machine shows a breakdown of the parts for the
front caster. You should be able to order only the part you need. You can find
the manual at www.graco.com, look on page 21 for the diagram of the caster, page
24 has the part numbers. Isn't the net great!
From: straight line
Date: 8/30/00 8:32:40 PM
try buying one from a caster supply company, we have Casters of Dallas here, you
should have on a supplier there that can get you the same thing that Graco would
for a lot less
From: Cormac
Date: 9/1/00 9:35:21 AM
Graco buys the basic caster from an outside source. The fork assembly is then
machined and then sent out to be surface hardened so that the pin wears and not
the caster assembly. So unless you can persuade someone at Graco to separate
one, you won't find adequate parts in the aftermarket. Have you spoken directly
to the Graco Striping specialist(there are 6) in your area? Find out who it is
and talk nicely with him and see if he can help. Perhaps he can find the parts
or "help" with a reduced price replacement caster. Being nice and talking to the
correct person works almost 100% of the time.
From: Cormac
Date: 9/1/00 9:41:24 AM
Lazer Liner: I just reread your post. It sounds like it is a Graco fabricated
part. If you can identify the part number I'll find one for you.
From: Cormac
Date: 9/1/00 5:42:13 PM
I did some checking regarding your caster parts. You got some bad advice or
info. Most if not all the component parts are available for the fat track
caster. You do not need to buy the whole new caster assembly!
1" line
From: Teamc
Date: 9/12/00 10:20:20 AM
Started painting the other night with my Graco 3000 and all I could get was
about a 1" to 1 1/2" line. Tried everything I could think of to fix it. turned
psi all the way up, cleaned all filters, put on a new tip, cleaned gun, kicked
pick up tires, and cussed but nothing helped. I was using S&W water base yellow
about the only thing I can think of is my paint was way to thick! Anybody have
any ideas what caused this?
Thanks Herb
From: City
Date: 9/12/00 12:32:01 PM
If you have sludge on the bottom of the pail , it may cause some restriction at
the intake filter. In the past when I used SW paint, I would always strain each
bucket before I used it.
From: sdechene
Date: 9/12/00 12:38:03 PM
Only 2 things come to mind: what size tip did you have plugged in? and how thick
was the paint?
From: Cormac
Date: 9/12/00 10:34:59 PM
Did it cool down the night before or over the weekend? Sometimes the paint will
body up when the temps drop. Try to Agitate or box the paint. I have been using
wider and wider fan patterns for waterbornes on the these tough days. Not 219 or
319 but even 419 to get a 4 inch line. And last but not least, you can add
water.
3900
getting clogs!
From: Lazerliner
Date: 10/9/00 10:36:57 AM
We have had a Graco 5900 for 2 seasons and have not had any problems with it. We
decided this year to purchase a 3900 for smaller jobs and to use as a 2nd
machine at times. The 3900 is about 6 weeks old and has been driving us nuts. It
seems that every time we change paint or run water through the machine, we get a
major clog at the check valve under the pump. We only use SW waterborne paint.
The clogs are clumped-up skins of dried paint which we have to clear by
disconnecting the check valve an clearing out the skins. I called Graco and was
basically told "it must be the paint, nothing we can do". I am convinced that
there is air getting into the lines somehow and drying the paint. Why else would
we have "skins" of dried paint at the check valve when we start up? We have
tried leaving the hose empty overnight, with water in it and with paint in it.
Same results. HELP!!! Thanks
From: SPRAYMAN110
Date: 10/9/00 6:08:56 PM
You are right, you are getting air in there some way. Try the plastic tape on
the fittings. If that don't work, it is in the pump itself. My feeling is that
it is in the pump. We had the check valve plug our machine. If you tap the
bottom of the pump with a hammer, it should loosen it up. We rebuilt the pump on
ours. No more problems. Joe
From: sdechene
Date: 10/9/00 10:49:31 PM
Ya know, my first response probably would have been that it's simply the paint
as well. But if you don't have the same problem with your other machines then
safeguarding against air leaks seems to be a good plan of attack. One thing I
have always done to our new airlesses is to disconnect ALL the fittings and
reseal them with Teflon tape or dope before I do anything.
From: Cormac
Date: 10/12/00 12:50:28 PM
I agree with everyone else to make sure that there are no leaks. Once you have
established that there are no leaks, another thing to try to eliminate is the
top bend of the hose. Meaning that there is an air pocket in every siphon hose
that is never eliminated. I see this all the time as I run one machine with a
"clear/see through" hose and the high spot will always have air in it. Because
there is an air pocket the paint will skin in the air pocket. That skin will
stay there until you either run out of paint or flush. At that point it will
travel and float with the last bit of paint into the lower ball. See if the hose
routing is dramatically different on your 3900 versus the 5900's. Reroute the
hose, shorten it, or do whatever you can minimize the horizontal runs in the
high spots of the hose. The size of the surface area of the so called air pocket
has a direct correlation with the size of the skin. I have never heard of this
on walk behind striper but I have run across it on striping trucks that pump. On
those I add a "Y" strainer in stainless or plastic. I am guessing you are using
a very fast dry formulation. As a last resort, you too can add a plastic "Y"
strainer close to the pump inlet. Bottomline, it is a paint issue, but you can
tweak your machine to minimize or eliminate These concerns. My guess is that the
siphon hose run in your 5900's leaves less area for a pocket.
Engine Replacement
From: jpanz
Date: 9/20/00 10:54:23 PM
Has anyone ever replaced an engine on a Graco unit. This winter I have to and
wanted to know how hard it was.
Thanks Jim
From: Nortern Striper
Date: 9/20/00 11:46:50 PM
I replaced an engine in a 5000 model last year. It took about an hour, using
Graco's instruction manual, which was fairly easy to follow. If you buy a new
Honda 5.5 HP motor from a non Graco source as I did, you will have to change the
alternator windings from your old motor to your new one. Otherwise the output
from the alternator will be insufficient to power the electric clutch. I had the
Honda dealer I bought the motor from do the windings transfer, I think it cost
me an 1/2 hour labour. Also while you have the motor separated from the pumping
unit, examine the clutch for wear.
From: Robert Liles
Date: 9/21/00 6:05:36 AM
One note: GRACO says you should get the motor from them. Additional machining
has been done on the mounting flange to assure precise alignment of the
pump/motor.
Gun
Rebuilding
From: jpanz
Date: 10/2/00 9:03:25 PM
How often do you rebuild your guns? I had a problem with a Graco Flex Plus that
would not shut off. I rebuilt the gun with the kit and the thing is like brand
new again. I compared it to my other guns that have about 1/4" travel to
activate the gun, but the new one has about 3/4" travel.
Jim
From: Randy
Date: 10/9/00 10:40:33 AM
We rebuild our guns when we have a problem - of course we keep a rebuild kit on
hand to avoid down time..
From: sdechene
Date: 10/9/00 10:38:29 PM
I have found that generally the Flex guns to be very durable needing a rebuild
maybe only once every 2 - 3 years. I think it was stated correctly - rebuild
when a problem develops. The Flex guns do have a very short throw on the
trigger, and myself, I prefer much more travel. To correct this, I simply bend
the two little tabs on the trigger that seat against the needle barrel back a
bit.
From: Cormac
Date: 10/12/00 1:03:23 PM
Jim, the older flex guns were adjustable in that you had to adjust the travel
after installation of the packing kit. The adjustment is made to ensure that the
gun cannot be turned on when the safety is engaged. What good is the safety if
you can squeeze the trigger and spray when the safety is engaged. The new style
Flex Plus simplified the process and eliminated the need for adjustment thus
easing Graco's concerns that guns were getting rebuilt but not adjusted
properly. The adjustment is made from the back.
PARTS FOR OLDER STRIPERS...
From:
Date: 12/13/00 1:47:36 AM
Do you think I will have trouble finding parts for a KELLY and an EZ-LINER
machine? they are both about 8 years old and in like new shape, I want them
because they are to be sold very cheap, now I know to be careful about shopping
used, but this is a deal I can't pass up.
From: Cormac
Date: 12/13/00 8:26:08 AM
Specialty parts for the Kelly can be purchased through Kelly-Creswell or JCL
Equipment both of Xenia, Ohio. The EZ, I believe uses a Graco pressure pot. Most
of the everyday parts you can get in a hardware store. Those machines are being
sold cheaply for a reason and when you outgrow them (or get sick of them), which
will be sooner than later, you'll probably have a hard time finding a buyer for
them too. Buy a demo machine as Jpanz suggests. You'll never regret it.
From: John B
Date: 12/13/00 10:29:32 AM
I kept and use EZ-Liner 583 for black-out paint. Parts can be obtained from EZ-Liner
at 1-800-373-4016, fax 712-737-3893. I use Graco's to stripe.
Wavy Lines
From: Lazerliner
Date: 5/30/00 11:24:48 PM
My Graco 5900 has suddenly developed this habit of producing wavy lines. I can
hear the pump priming and as it does, the lines get wider and thinner. Any
ideas? Thanks guys...
From: City
Date: 5/31/00 12:07:05 AM
I have been following the postings on this problem closely. I have a 3500 which
sprays alkyd, ch.rubber just fine and when I switch to latex it pulsates the
lines, I thought it was my screens that were clogging but they’re clean, I also
thought I had a flow restriction in the lines somewhere but realized I already
replaced my hoses, I concluded that by thinning the latex somewhat seemed to
correct the wavy lines but still had a slight ripple effect. I’m stumped too any
suggestions anyone?
From: Fonz
Date: 5/31/00 2:02:59 AM
Here's a few suggestions I have received from Graco reps over the years,....they
all come into play. #1 adjust engine speed to just above a stall when the clutch
engages. Too high an engine speed and the constant "engage-disengage"
drastically adds to "Hour-glass" lines. #2 Use the 50 foot hose......It acts as
a shock absorber and is a "must" for good lines. In fact Graco went to a 3/8
hose from a 1/4 hose about 3 years ago just to help the situation. SO if you
have the old 1/4 inch....invest in the 3/8ths..about $240.#3 keep the filter
clean. #4 and yes a slightly thinner paint helps the situation at times.
From: Lazerliner
Date: 5/31/00 10:14:39 AM
Thanks for the "tips", Fonz. My machine is only 8 months old so I do have the
wider 50 ft hose. I don't recall having this problem last year when I started
using the machine so I thought it might be a mechanical error. I guess I didn't
pay as much attention to it then. I have been using SW latex straight without
thinning. What paint/water ratio do you suggest? As far as the engine speed
goes, I set it at the almost-stall setting with the pressure at a little above
half way. When I did that, it seemed to fix the hour glass a slight bit...I have
the feeling that perfection with this machine is not possible!
From: Cormac
Date: 5/31/00 12:40:17 PM
Sounds like you pressure setting is a little on the low side. You already have
Graco's expansion striping hose (it should say STRIPING hose on it and is only
rated for 3000 PSI). Be aware that it is not an ordinary 3/8" hose as used on
the newer 3900 and 5900 stripers. The STRIPING hose works like a balloon and the
more PSI you put into it the more it inflates. The more inflated it is the
better for masking pump and clutch actions, plugged screens. So my first
suggestion is to make sure all filter screens and in good shape. Once verified,
turn up your pressure to 3/4 pressure and see if the results are any better. If
needed, turn the PSI higher and see if the pulsation goes away. Occasionally you
get a particular batch of "difficult" paint, that just requires adding a slight
amount of paint to take the "edge" off the paint. That may be as little as a cup
to a five or perhaps two cups or more.
From: Bob
Date: 5/31/00 12:52:02 PM
Even though I do not have a 5900 my 5000 did the same thing when I first owned
it. I solved the problem with the help of adding a 25' hose to the 50'. Now I
set my pump at about 1\3 pressure and my engine at just above stall and have had
know problems since. The only thinning that I do is add a little solvent or
water to the top of my paint to keep it from setting up while I paint. Bob
From: Robert Liles
Date: 5/31/00 6:48:18 AM
Does it seem to take a little longer to pressure up after you close the prime
valve? Sounds like the suction (inlet) valve on your pump may be leaking, or
there may be an air leak in the suction hose allowing some air into the pump.
From: Max
Date: 6/22/00 8:38:53 AM
You ask how to get rid of pulsation and the hour glass effect? Use an airspray
machine!! The problems you are reporting are the nature of the beast with
airless - you'll have a more dependable and less costly machine to run with an
airspray!!
3900 problem......
From: bobbyTox
Date: 4/10/00 4:55:38 PM
My new 3900 is not spraying a sharp, crisp line....its kind of like "scalloping"
and the edges are crisp....I’m using the supplied 319 and 317 tip and I have
turned the pressure up and down and throttle up, down etc and still its doing
it.......anybody got any answers...
From: jpanz
Date: 4/10/00 9:45:26 PM
Have you checked your filter? A clogged filter will cause that problem.
Jim
Thinning
Paint
From: jpanz
Date: 5/31/00 1:05:47 PM
Why do you have to thin your paint to get a nice line out of the new Graco??? I
have 2 - 5000 and never thin the paint, latex or the heavy VOC oil paint. Graco
sounds like they have a MAJOR problem with the new machines, they better fix it
before they get Titans (not speedflow) reputation.
Jim
From: Cormac
Date: 5/31/00 11:59:13 PM
All I can say Jim is that if you bought a 5900 you would never take out the
5000's again. They are as different as night and day. Everyone that has them in
my area love them (me included)and I have not heard a single problem since the
initial batch of circuit boards. So MAJOR is both ridiculous and inappropriate.
The guy above had an old style 3500 and it is a little tough to diagnose via the
net. You apparently have good paint readily available. A good service center is
worth their weight in gold just for the simple diagnostics.
From: Fonz
Date: 6/1/00 12:26:04 AM
Your comments have always been the most technical
informative on this bullitin board.........I know Jim owns a new 3900 as do I.
Although JIm has had no problems, I have been plagued with mine. And still I
have to thin my paint with about 16oz per 5 gallons of SW fast dry latex to get
a decent line.
From: Cormac
Date: 6/1/00 11:02:46 AM
There is no reason you should have to do that with a 3900. Call Carl Gruenberg (
he's the Graco factory rep in Detroit). 1 (800)481-2466 X2263. Be nice but tell
him you want him to make arrangements with the BEST service center (in his
opinion)to look at your machine and fix it or replace it. If Carl has a 3900 on
his own inventory ask him to bring it, put YOUR paint in it and see if it
performs any differently.
Engine Speed on 3900
From: Straightline
Date: 9/9/00 6:26:25 AM
In a recent posting several people alluded to setting the engine speed on a 3900
at just above stall speed........Can someone explain further, and do ya'll
stripe at this low RPM??
From: RandyV
Date: 9/9/00 8:13:03 AM
I set our engine RPM just fast enough to keep the pressure constant while
spraying. When I spray one 18' line, the pump comes on one time and stays on
until the exact instant that I stop spraying - - this is ideal but somewhere
close to this is what I consider good.
Why? you ask? I guess I am just anal retentive and only
like my pump to come on once each time I pull the trigger. I assume (and of
course could be wrong) that the less times I have the pump engage, the longer
parts will last. Also, a very constant pressure creates a better line.
Funny thing though, I can't seem to get my new Graco 3900
to operate that way - it is as though there is a delay in the time the pressure
switch activates and the pump engages. Has anyone else experienced this??
From: broncobilly
Date: 9/9/00 5:48:37 PM
I'm glad this subject came up again, because I questioned it myself. After
reading the posts on engine speed, I tried various speeds. I guess randy and
others have pumps which are made better than mine because none of my machines
perform well at a lower engine speed (we have gracos-3000,(2)3900's,5000). My
first reaction to randy's statement about prolonging the pump's life is that it
sounds reasonable, however, doesn't it make the pump work harder to make up for
the lack of engine speed? Does it affect the volume of paint being applied? We
noticed a poor line quality when trying this method. -Thanks-
From: Lazerliner
Date: 9/9/00 6:39:19 PM
We have a 1 year old 5900 and a new (2 weeks) 3900. We constantly have to adjust
the pressure to avoid the hourglass wave in our lines. I have tried the "just
above stall" method but sometimes doesn’t put out a good line either. Higher
pressure at medium speed is where we are now....I wish Graco would do some
research and create a more definite setting.
From: greg, RonSon Stripe it up ent.
Date: 9/9/00 9:37:20 PM
I have only one season under my belt. However I do have a Opinion and I forget
which one of you told me to lower engine speed, but it has had a great effect on
my lines, for the good. I run it as low as I can . We own a "Titan Proliner".
Greg K
From: Cormac
Date: 9/9/00 11:17:57 PM
The 3000, the 3500/5000, and the 3900/5900 all have different control boxes and
all work very differently from one another. The box used on the 3900/5900 is a
dramatic improvement in that it will actually monitor what application you are
doing or more accurately how hard and often you are actuating the pump and
adjust itself for peak efficiency. It also monitors PSI more closely. On a
3900/5900, I spray waterborne paint at lower engine speeds and at reduced PSI
while using a larger orifice to maintain high production speeds. If you like a
.019 tip volume then try a .021 or even an .023 and run it at about 2/3 PSI. The
new controller will keep pressure fluctuations to a minimum. Engine RPM is at a
lower speed. If you see a little pulsation, bump up the RPM's a little until it
goes away. An interesting note is that with the SAME paint and by running larger
orifice sizes you do not need as much energy to atomize to paint. An example of
this is that striping trucks will spray 1952-D at only 1000 to 1200 PSI while a
Linelazer will require 2000 to 3000 PSI. 3500 and 5000 Linelazers, due to the
control box design typically requires higher PSI operation and 2/3 to full
engine speeds for best results with waterbornes. Graco offers a special 3/8"
hose designed for use with striping paints. That looks like every other 3/8"
paint hose but it is different. Very different. It is noticeably marked on the
outside as STRIPING HOSE. Unlike typical 3/8" hose this hose will actually
"balloon" to almost twice its volumetric capacity when run at 2500 to 3000 PSI.
This works like an accumulator and eliminates pulsation. It also reduces pump
action and clutch cycles. BTW, this is not the same hose used on the 3900/5900.
Any 3500, 5000 or even 3000 will benefit by using this hose as will every other
brand. The waterborne paints used today are far different from those used when
the 3500 and 5000's were introduced, so as the paints change, sometimes
equipment changes are in order.
From: Fonz
Date: 9/10/00 12:05:35 AM
I always bow out to Cormac...the guy is a master at this stuff. A few comments
from my own experience though. I run my 3500 just above a stall so that the
clutch only engages once per line. It was a tip given to me by a Graco rep, it
works and makes sense. The clutch engaging and disengages from high RPM added to
the hour-glass effect. The second thing is just as Cormac said...a good 50 ft
hose. I invested in the 3/8 retro fit hose for my 3500 and together with the
lower engine speed , hour-glass in none existent on my 3500.
I'm still dinkin around with my 3900 though..it's touchy as
hell. The machine likes latex paint thinned a little, and it performs better in
warmer temperatures. With cold weather coming I'm expecting the machine to act
up again. I bought a pressure gage for it last week and will install it
tomorrow. I really don't think anyone can accurately know what’s happening on
their machine without an inline pressure gage. That’s just my opinion of course.
I really think all machines should have a gage as standard equipment.
And Jpanz reminded me too.....if you run at low RPM invest
in platinum plugs..the damn things last forever and never fall-out....PLATINUM
PLUGS...my tip of the day!
From: Cormac
Date: 9/10/00 10:42:33 AM
The 3900 should not be "touchy" and I feel Graco can make it perform as it
should. Have you contacted Carl yet? He is a sharp Graco striping guy and will
take care of anything odd with your striper. Liquid filled gauges make a lot of
sense and are great for diagnostic work but unfortunately they do not last very
long in a the paint environment and are very pricey to buy and replace
continually. Throw in the bouncing around and engine vibration and you have an
even rougher environment. But....If the gauge ever indicates anything odd when
the machine is feeling "touchy", let us know. It will help solve the puzzle. Or
as suggested, Carl will do it at any time.
From: jpanz
Date: 9/9/00 10:43:16 PM
I know the Fonz does it this way but he bought high quality spark plugs to keep
the machine from burning out the plugs. I myself keep them at a higher rpm and
about 3/4 pressure, and never have had a problem
Jim
From: Cormac
Date: 9/10/00 10:48:27 AM
As with any airless pump design, if you go too low you will get a pulse on
changeover or clutch engagement. In small increments, keep turning it up until
you have smooth delivery. Cooler weather is coming and the paint will body up so
you may have to increase RPM's as cooler air temps become the norm.
From: StraightLine
Date: 9/10/00 6:21:48 PM
Painted a job today and experimented with throttle settings. Started at just
above "stall" speed and used the full throttle range. I set the pressure at my
usual setting, about 3/4 of the range. I noticed no difference in the line
quality at any throttle setting. The only thing I did notice is that the engine
exhaust had more smoke at the lower throttle settings. The pump seemed to
operate at lower speeds just the same at higher ones.
From: Lazerliner
Date: 9/11/00 10:25:34 AM
I think I worked out a few problems with my new 3900 by cranking up the engine
speed and setting the pressure just below 3/4. Lower engine speed was creating a
new problem with "shakey" lines due to engine vibration. Moderate speed created
the "hourglass" effect. But with the new setting, I think the lines are
better...But with cooler weather coming, I expect some headaches...
Pressure Settings on Graco 5900
From: DJNJ
Date: 5/9/00 5:25:51 AM
I have a 5900 that I purchased new last fall. It seems that every time I use it,
I have to set the pressure knob differently each time for the same results. Same
with the engine speed... Any suggestions? Also, what size tip is best for 4"
lines with Sherwin Williams latex? Any help will be appreciated...
From: Bob
Date: 5/9/00 7:16:40 AM
I would say welcome to the world of Graco. I have to always reset the pressure
and engine speed on my two machines at new jobs. There is know one setting and
leave it there, unless you want to adjust the height of the gun from the
surface. Bob
From: Fonz
Date: 5/9/00 10:35:43 PM
I was in the same boat but it worked it self out, I have no idea how. I have a
new 3900. I couldn't get Sherwin Williams fast-dry latex thru the gun unless I
thinned the paint. Then the damn clutch kept engaging and disengaging with every
stroke of the pump. If Lowered the engine speed the line would narrow from 4in
to 2 in and the motor stall. I was going nuts!! I called Graco and for the first
time ever, was disappointed in their reply which wasn't much. I truly thought at
the time that my electronic pressure control was screwed up. At the time it was
about 40 degrees at night and 55-60 during the day. As soon as it got near 80
degrees my problems stopped. I could turn down the engine speed and the clutch
would only engage once per line. Nothing changed except outside temperature. I'm
thinning the paint less now and about to try it "straight" out of the bucket
again with no thinning. The first week I was convinced I had a lemon......I
still don't know for sure. I had the pressure up so high to get a good line I'll
was convinced the machine would never support 2 guns..............now, things
seem OK.....go figure!!
Graco Pressure Control
From: JT
Date: 4/1/00 8:46:11 AM
I just made about a $600 mistake I thought I'd post just in case someone else
can avoid it. Last week I was spraying water, just making sure everything was
working. I left the water in it thinking it would fine since the low temps. had
been above 30 degrees. Not so, I ended up having to replace the pressure control
(~ $600). The service center said the temp. only has to get down to about 34
degrees to bend this sensor. Graco has since changed the design so this
shouldn't happen. My machine is 3 years old. Live and learn. Hope this helps
someone.
From: Don
Date: 4/2/00 7:38:51 PM
I may get some flack from this since I don't own a Graco. However my machine
dealer who sells, does warranty, etc. on all types airless equipment including
Graco Titan, Wagner, etc. (not just stripers) told me years ago to NEVER leave
water in an airless pump even overnight. To always flush and fill the pump with
a very light oil (wd-40, diesel, etc. or at least a product mixed with water he
called "pump saver" I believe) They believe this so strongly they don't leave
machines brought into their shop with plain water in them and they are a very
high volume dealer and repair facility. Maybe it's a matter of preference but
these guys have been around 30-40 years and have a great reputation. Like I said
maybe it doesn't apply to Graco for some reason but they said any airless.
From: Bob
Date: 4/6/00 7:09:04 AM
JT you are not the only one that made that mistake. I to just replaced the
pressure control on my Graco 5000. The thing that is up setting to me is that
Graco has know about this problem and made no attempt to inform the dealers or
us the customers about this possible problem in the control box. They just went
along and now have the new control box for replacement at as you said (-600).
Though you might like to know that you are not the only one.
From: ken
Date: 4/7/00 10:12:31 AM
And our Speed-flo's just keep on ka-chunkin along...no
control boards to fry, no bells and whistles....just add gas, oil, and paint.
Sorry....couldn't resist a playful jab
Graco, New & Improved Pump
Controller
From: JT
Date: 6/18/00 8:02:39 PM
This is another complaint on the new controller. Way back, I was the dumb@#@
that left water in my Graco 3500 (although the temp. didn't get down to
freezing) and ruined my pump controller. Since I've had it replaced this new and
improved one is has been a pain in the @#@. More and more the pump engages
intermittently after I've finished a line and builds pressure to the point when
I start the next line I get a big surge of paint then less paint as I go. This
problem comes and goes but it's getting to be more frequent. I'm afraid I'll
blow the hose. Could this be caused by anything other than the pump controller?
From all the previous posts regarding pump problems with Graco's I'm thinking
about a buying a different machine. Thanks, JT
From: JT
Date: 6/19/00 7:37:34 PM
HOLD THE PHONE, TAKE MY BIG 10 1/2" YELLOW SHOE OUT OF MY MOUTH (I THINK). I
took my machine to the service center today to have the controller checked and
it checked out fine. The tech. thought it might have been a something on the
ball or seat or maybe in the controller that I got flushed out. We'll see for
certain but - FROM NOW ON I'LL TRY TO START BRAIN BEFORE ENGAGING MOUTH.
From: ken
Date: 6/19/00 7:48:27 PM
No, I'm not going to blast the Graco's again (eventho' its always so much fun).
But JT, I'd bet a dollar against a hole in a donut you have a restriction
somewhere between the pump and you gun tip. A clog close to the pump would allow
the pressure to build up and store in the line. The controller wouldn't "feel"
the drop in pressure as fast and also it would not be able to repressurize the
line fast enough to keep the line from tapering off.
Hope you find the problem. Good Luck!!!!
From: Cormac
Date: 6/19/00 9:39:43 PM
You did not explain the symptoms fully but I would look at
the fluid section (something stuck intermittantly in one of the balls, bad
ball/seat, or even bad packings). All of those items would make the pump
intermitantly stroke or cycle. If it is truly building excessive pressure with
the intermittant cycles AND you have the latest control box(Smart) you may just
have a bad board. If you put the box on within the last year it should be
covered under warranty.
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