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Note: these archives were compiled from past Parking Lot Planet Forums.
The answers and opinions are those of the posters. Things may have changed
since then, so be sure to get up to date information from the
current Parking Lot Planet forum
Paint - Pros and Cons
Waterbase: True or False?
Sherwin Williams
Red Paint
Aexcel White
Fast Dry Waterborne Traffic Safety Paint
Solvent or
Waterbase
Great paint, price & service
Bright
paints?
Polyester and Epoxy Paints
Chlorinated rubber paint
Thin Paint:
Waterbase: True or False?
From: Patrick
Date: 11/21/99 8:54:32 PM
Most people use Waterbase Paint? And why Thanks to all who reply!!!
From: RandyV
Date: 11/21/99 8:55:34 PM
Hey Mikey O, Maybe you have a high sensitivity to the certain type of
water-based paint you tried. The use of a respirator in my opinion is not an
option for this application. Your employees need to go through medical
monitoring and be fitted / trained in the proper use of a respirator or you may
end up with bigger problems than you are trying to avoid. OSHA has much to say
about the use of such personal protection devices and the prerequisites for
their use.
As for trying water-based paints, we use an airless (Graco
LineLaser)with LLT317 tips. The tips are a bit small in orifice size but we find
that we can paint a straighter line when we walk slower. It is also easier to
start/stop on our marks without shingles with the smaller orifice tips.
As for leakage from your tips, we only have that problem
when the faces of the gun & washers are not clean. Hell We have been using the
same washers all summer with no problem. Our line quality is great until the
tips get worn but that happens with any tip.
The paint we use regularly is made by Excel and although it
seems to have a lot of "crap" in it that plugs up our filter, it applies well
and seems to be lasting good. We have had a couple of jobs that required Sherwin
Williams and I love their Lead-free fast dry traffic paint (I forget the
number). It applies great, has no crap in it but as with any lead free, it is
dull. It is also much more expensive than the Excel we use.
Water-based paint in our opinion is the only way to go
unless conditions or customers demand solvent based but we each must use what
works best for us to give the customer a quality product and job.
Randy
From:
Date: 11/21/99 8:59:37 PM
This would depend on your area. A lot of chlorinated rubber is still being used.
Chlorinated rubber is preferred two to one according to sales by major
distributors in the industry. Water base and chlorinated is a user / customer
choice at this point. A lot of people began using waterbase due to the rumors
that the feds would disallow the manufacturing of it. The truth is that the
chlorinated rubber paints will still be manufactured, but not allowed to be
shipped in containers larger than five gallons. They hope this would cause the
larger "road" contractors to switch. It ain't gonna happen. Many contractors
already by in fives and transfer to drums.
From:
Date: 11/21/99 9:00:26 PM
Waterbase Latex all the way - - clean-up is with water and there is no
possibility of fire, contamination (Naptha is a carcinogen) - no solvents to
dispose of. The negative is this time of year (Michigan) it gets real rough with
low temps and dew points trying to use waterbase paints
From: City
Date: 11/25/99 11:20:30 PM
They pretty much covered it, I have to agree. latex is great for warm weather it
dries fast, recommended for over sealcoat applications and most important, easy,
less toxic clean up. on the other hand alkyd has its advantages. holds its
brightness better, lines do not "scuff" or get dirty as much as latex, seems to
spray a sharper line and I have striped in drizzle and snow flurries (you could
never do that with latex). try both, you decide what’s best for you.
From: HH
Date: 11/28/99 9:43:09 PM
I agree with city. You will have to use both ALKYD & LATEX. If you have a
problem with the disposal of solvents used on ALKYD, then let the paint settle
to the bottom of a container and recycle the solvent. Let paint in the bottom
dry, then get rid of the paint. Airless machine spray latex very good, but they
may have an overspray problem on certain ALKYD paints. I have a problem with
getting rid of the colored water that I clean out of my machine when using
LATEX. What does everyone else do with the water?
From: Don
Date: 1/14/00 8:30:31 AM
Use the type paint suited for the job. Over new asphalt pavement or fresh
sealcoating (less than 1 year)ALWAYS use latex. Latex yellow also seems to hold
the original color better. Latex will not hold well on oily pavements but may
hold better on new concrete if the alkali is high. Chlorinated rubber is best at
night or in cooler weather. It will dry better then but dry slower it hot sun.
Alkyd will perform well all around. Some states (TX and CA) no longer allow
solvent paints on state highways but that doesn't usually affect parking lots.
The clean up water is often harder to properly dispose of than solvent as
solvent can be reused after it settles. Also remember virtually all yellow
striping paint contains lead (the most hazardous thing you will encounter). Also
never store your machine (especially if it's airless) with water in it. Always
store with mineral spirits in the lines and a light oil like WD40 in the pump.
Sherwin
Williams
From: Very uhnhappy striper
Date: 12/4/99 7:25:18 PM
Yesterday at 9:00 am I striped one stall and a hash out with Sherwin Pro Mar
Alkyd tinted blue. It has been in the 50's of a day and in the 40's at night. It
was even warmer yesterday. After I painted the lines, I left it coned off for 1
and 1/2 hours. It rained later in the afternoon. Today it is coming off in
little pieces. This is the second time this year that I have bought paint from
Sherwin W. that after it has been tinted, will not adhere. I tried it on a piece
of cardboard and after 30 hours I can still pick it off with my finger nails. I
have been striping for many years and this is the first year I have ever had
this happen. Please don't give advise on cleaning the lot. It is not the lot.
It's the paint. I bought this paint from the same place I have for years. They
have no answer. My customer has many lots that I was in the first stages of
doing, but now? I need a good supplier with a good product every time! Any
ideas????????
From: Ken
Date: 12/5/99 8:42:27 AM
I have used SW alkyd (tinted blue) with mixed results. I started to reorder a
pail and was discouraged by the SW rep. 'Something about the tint (although
minute) affected the adhering qualities adversely. I an not defending SW, just
reporting the info. Until recently, I have been an exclusive SW customer and
tended to look down my nose at the local paint manufacturer "STANDARD PAINT" out
of Dallas. Previously, I had to use their paint on a few occasions due to the
local SW stores running out of paint (can you imagine?). I have had tremendous
luck with "Standard". It lays down well, available in chlorinated rubber (in
most colors), their CR red does not turn pink, and is much cheaper than SW. They
always have paint and it is always fresh. I have yet to find any solids on the
bottom of a pail.
Hope this helps! Good luck!
From: jpanz
Date: 12/5/99 8:55:37 PM
One problem might be that they are using interior tint for your paint. All paint
specs say to only use exterior tint nothing else.
If you only use Sherwin Williams, try buying their blue
handicap paint. Its premixed from the factory and I have not had any problems in
three years of using it. Their product number is TM2133.
Good Luck.
Jim P
From: CW
Date: 12/6/99 11:16:15 AM
I feel your paint brother! Call Safety Coatings! They undoubtedly have the best
paint I've ever used. Its possible they have a dealer in your area. Phone:
1-800-557-8810
Try to use a paint that is manufactured by someone who
specializes in traffic marking paint and not house paint! You'll be amazed at
the difference.
From: linestripe
Date: 2/25/00 12:35:47 PM
Most problems I have with paint I think are due to high humidity. No matter what
the temperature is, if the humidity is up I see flaking problems.
From: Can stripe
Date: 3/12/00 3:14:21 PM
I have run into this problem before and this is what I found. If it is setfast
that has been tinted blue the problem is the temperature its to cold and will do
just what you have described.
Red Paint
From: J in Tx.
Date: 2/23/00 7:19:04 PM
What is the best red to use that doesn't turn pink in a few months.
From: Robert
Date: 2/23/00 9:20:08 PM
The guys (and gals) at sherwinWilly give me great service and good paint, but
their alkyd red turns pink in a few months in direct sunlight. I learned at the
Expo in Louisville that they have changed the pigmentation of their red. However
I have been using their waterborne red with good results. But I have also been
using alkyd (oil-based) red from Technical Coatings and it seems to have better
pigments. They hold their red color very well.
From: Ken
Date: 2/24/00 8:22:45 AM
I have had good luck with the red semi-gloss chlorinated rubber from Standard
Paint in Dallas.
Ken
From: Don
Date: 3/1/00 9:19:46 AM
Yest the chlorinated rubber from Standard Paints (Dallas) holds color well as
does a latex paint made by Neyra Industries in Cleburne TX. Don't worry the
Neyra paint looks sick when you open the bucket... it dries red and they tell me
the chemistry that makes it look funny wet is what helps it hold it's color
better.
Aexcel White
Fast Dry Waterborne Traffic Safety Paint
From: Mike
Date: 6/25/00 4:47:06 PM
My first and last time try. At first I liked it after my machine And I excepted
the change. I had the paint shooked and found 2" of solids on the bottom, after
I was done . I tried machine stirring and my drill would not turn it. I added 2
1/2 cups of water and still had a hard time stirring. After all this I tried
Straining the paint and it clogged the new strainer. When I cleaned my machine
my 2nd filter was almost completely clogged. I assume this is not normal. What
would cause it to be like this?
From: City
Date: 6/25/00 11:17:01 PM
I am not familiar with Aexcel but from my experience with S.W. I suspect that
the paint you got must be very old. Since I changed paint mfg. to a local brand
I don’t have to strain my paint anymore. I have never gotten a batch of paint
that is older than a few days. This stuff is so fresh, my screens don't get
clogged like they did with S.W. Guess I’m one of the lucky ones to be able to
have access to fresh paint. You should be able to get good results from
straining before you spray it. When I was using S.W. I always had to strain
every gallon otherwise I would have to keep replacing screens.
From: Mike
Date: 6/29/00 10:15:33 PM
What is the shelf life on waterbase and oil base paints? My rep say it is fine
so long as it does not freeze.
From: TEAMC
Date: 6/25/00 11:22:39 PM
WITH S&W PAINT, THE WHITE IS THE ONLY ONE I HAVE GOTTEN THAT HAD VERY MUCH
SOLIDS, AND I THINK THAT WAS BECAUSE IT WAS OLD PAINT, THE REST OF IT WORKS
GREAT
From: Randy
Date: 7/10/00 6:57:05 PM
Hey Mike, We have been using Aexcel for almost 2 years now and have had very
good luck with almost all of it. I think you must have gotten a bad batch (or an
old one). We received a whole pallet of yellow regular dry Aexcel Latex late
last season and immediately started having problems. At first I thought that we
were experiencing freezing tips (we are in MI and it was November around 30
deg). The tip would plug regularly. Well, we still had some of this paint left
this spring and low and behold, we still had tip clogging problems. The problem
vanished when that batch of paint was gone but let me tell you it was a real
bitch having the tip plug almost every other line. We strained, went to a finer
strainer in our Graco, replaced hoses, tips hell we tried everything but just
when we were ready to commit HariKari, we got into the new paint and everything
was great. The next time we have that problem, we will return the batch and
demand an exchange (and credit on freight).
On a side note, we still use Aexcel as our regular paint
and use SW when we are painting to MDOT specifications. We NEVER thin the Aexcel
but regularly have to thin the SW.
Randy
From: stripespls.com
Date: 7/11/00 9:37:54 AM
I've had the same problems with trash. 'Tried it twice....I'll never use it
again.
Ken
Solvent or
Waterbase
From: Tru Trac
Date: 10/1/00 6:14:01 PM
I just started doing some work for a Sealcoater who uses an oil base sealcoat. I
was told that I should use a Solvent type paint which I did. My question is can
I use latex instead. I had a lot of trouble with the solvent. It was Sherwin
Williams and it so thin I had to apply two coats and an awful lot of overspray I
couldn't get rid. Any help would be great. He has quite a few more jobs to be
done.
From: Robert
Date: 10/1/00 6:45:33 PM
Latex should be fine. About the paint you used, was it well mixed? The only time
I've seen Sherwin Williams paint be thin was when it wasn't mixed and there was
a lot of solids in the bottom.
From: Don
Date: 10/1/00 7:02:06 PM
First off there is no such thing as "oil based" or "water based" sealer.
"Emulsion" type sealers have the base ingredients, either, coal-tar or asphalt,
suspended in water. Some rarely-seen sealers contain solvents (usually mineral
spirits) as the carrier for the base ingredients (primarily a mineral called
Gilsonite). I have heard the term "oil based" sealers in other discussion groups
but since oil easily dissolves asphalt it wouldn't make sense. (The same is true
of Gilsonite products due to the solvent. They're mostly used by people who
sealcoat when it's too cold for regular sealers.)As far as paint almost all
major sealcoat manufacturers specify the use of latex paint only. If the sealer
is very slick/shiny/glossy black it might be Gilsonite based. I do not know what
they advise but it stands to reason that since it contains solvent a solvent
based paint might be required. For some on-line articles about sealers, terms,
spec's etc. visit is
http://www.pavementpro.org
From: tomtom
Date: 10/1/00 8:51:23 PM
Could you also explain what happens and why when one uses alkyd paint when it
calls for latex and also alkyd when it calls for latex. I have seen the paint
turn brown when using alkyd white instead of latex on the wrong kind of sealer.
The alkyd paint pulled the sealer color up thru to the top. what happens when
you use yellow alkyd paint on the "Waterbased" sealer as it does not turn color?
From: Fonz
Date: 10/1/00 11:18:13 PM
I'm sure my ignorance is showing again, but I question Don's thinking on the
last two sentences of his reply. I guess my thinking is a little different.
Solvent sealer with solvent paint??.....to me the two would interact...bleed and
blend together. But water is basically inert. Water based paints may not
adhere..stick or hold to solvent sealer, but at least they wouldn't interact
together. I'm out of my league here and have no real experience with the product
so it's just a hunch on my part as to the outcome of solvent sealer and solvent
paint...............my respect to Don and his more informed
opinion......................Fonz
From: Don
Date: 10/2/00 6:42:41 AM
Good question Fonz, it's like this. Similar materials are generally compatible
with one another. For example, and to answer the previous question at the same
time, alkyd paint turns brownish on conventional coal-tar sealer (yellow does it
too, it just doesn't show up as bad)because of a chemical reaction between the
solvents and oils in the paint and the coal-tar. Coal-tar and oils are not
chemically similar so the coal-tar tries to "repel" the paint. Remember latex
paint is not really water "based" as much as it is water "borne". Meaning the
paint itself is left after the water evaporates. Solvented paints are similar
but the evaporation of the solvent is a chemical action rather than the actual
drying action of water. Asphalt-based sealer suffers from the same effects
solvent paint has on asphalt. It tries to "eat through" the sealer. The very
hard Gilsonite material may tend to repel the latex while the solvent in the
paint would let it bond the way the sealer ingredients originally did. (I looked
all over the 'net and couldn't find a Gilsonite sealer mfg. with a paint spec.
on their site.) Have you ever noticed those "cracks" down the sides of the
stripes on an older, restriped, asphalt lot? They're caused by the oils in the
paint breaking down the asphalt with repeated striping. In a perfect world where
the weather was always low-humidity and warm, the pavement was always clean, and
drying time was not a concern, good latex paints would almost always out-perform
solvent type paints. For more info look in the article "Understanding how
sealcoating works" at http:www.PavementPro.org/understanding.htm under the
paragraph "why seal asphalt?".
From:
Date: 10/2/00 6:52:06 AM
I always thought those cracks were from expanding and contracting of the
asphalt. due to the paint covering the asphalt there are to different
temperatures so when the asphalt covered with paint contracts and expands at a
different rate a crack would form.
From: Don
Date: 10/2/00 7:15:03 AM
Paint is so thin (compared to the pavement) there is very little temperature
difference in the surfaces, nowhere near enough to cause that type cracking.
Also the paint being weaker it would break first as sometimes happens when paint
builds up too thick on concrete pavement. The oils weaken the asphalt surface
then the shrinking during drying pulls the surface crack (this is usually a
long-term effect). You can see other things such as similar surface cracking if
you paint a thick coat of latex on very hot new asphalt. The asphalt hasn't had
time to cure and harden, and the over-rapid contraction during drying of the
paint can pull small cracks in the surface. To avoid this use two thin coats
instead of a thick coat or paint when the surface is cooler.
From: HH
Date: 10/5/00 2:35:11 PM
DON IS RIGHT. THE OIL BASE PAINT WILL CRACK NEW ASPHALT. SOME STRIPERS USE IT SO
THEY DON'T HAVE TO RE-CHALK ON THE RE-STRIPE. IT WILL COME THROUGH SEAL COAT AND
NO RE-CHALK. WATER BASE WILL NOT BLEED THROUGH SEAL COAT AND OIL BASE CAN. IF
THE SEAL COAT HAS CURED IT WANT. I USE WATER BASE ON SEAL COAT. THE OIL BASE IS
THINNER AND YOU NEED TO USE A BIGGER HOLE IN THE TIP AND REDUCE YOUR PRESSURE IF
U ARE USING A AIRLESS. I HAVE A PROBLEM WITH OVERSPRAY WITH OIL BASE IN MY
GRACO. THE WATER BASE WORKS GREAT.I THINK THEY HAVE A .022 HOLE TIP FOR A GRACO
THAT IS WHAT I WOULD USE AND REDUCE THE PRESSURE.
From: jpanz
Date: 10/5/00 8:19:56 PM
Oil Based is thinner then latex? All the oil I ever used has been much thicker.
Jim
From: Don
Date: 10/6/00 10:38:35 AM
I guess it depends on the brands etc. Usually we find latex thicker but one
brand of alkyd we use is thicker than that latex. One thing about oil bases is
they spray easier so you can use finer filters and lower pressure even if
they're thicker. I don't really understand the chemistry of it but it's true for
other paints like house paint as well.
From: straightline
Date: 10/2/00 2:35:08 AM
I would just stay home on this one, they are probably using some very cheep
black gloss paint, I have tried to paint on this before and the stripes lasted
just long enough for the check to clear, this stuff costs less then sealcoat and
wont even stick to the asphalt.
From: Bookman
Date: 10/3/00 9:51:23 PM
When you work for ANY contractor, I suggest you ask him EXACTLY what BRAND and
TYPE of sealer/rejuvenator he uses. If you are not familiar with the product,
ask HIM what paint he prefers you use. That puts the monkey on his back. If he
can't or won't give you an answer, why would you consider doing more than a test
stripe or two? Bulk Gilsonite has not been available in my city (probably the
state of Kentucky as well), but I've seen it at various Expos. There was a
company at Expo 2000 (in the vicinity of the SnoWay booth) that offered a
similar product. I can't recall Gilsonite or any similar company saying they
were sealcoaters per se, because they stress the fact that their products
actually PENETRATE the pavement. As I recall, their samples showed a depth
penetration of about 1/4 inch. Neither coal tar nor asphalt emulsion actually
penetrate the pavement, hence the name sealCOAT. The company at Expo 00 showed
photos of commercial parking lots that were striped with both white & yellow
paint. The photos had good color & well-defined edges. The company shouldn't be
hard to find if anyone still has their Expo booklet w/exhibitor names. I'm
guessing whatever paint works on their product should work on your jobs. I can't
believe SW can't or won't help you on this.
By the way TruTrac, when you have a problem like this, it
says to return the pail to the dealer for an explanation. But be sure to pour a
little bit into a clean container just in case your dealer "loses" the pail you
returned.
From: Don
Date: 10/6/00 1:15:00 PM
Everybody's got claims. Any product that penetrated 1/4" into asphalt would ruin
not rejuvenate the pavement. The solvents in these type products can destroy
asphalt if they are over-applied. I know most folks on this board are strictly
stripers and their concern is getting the paint to stick, but for info so-called
rejuvenators come and go every few years. They're a gimmick although contractors
that don't mind selling snake oil love the high profits they get from them.
Pavement magazine had a great article a year or so ago where a couple of big
"rejuvenator" contractors told how great the profits were (3-4 times more than
sealcoating). They mentioned striping was easier because the stuff is so thin
you can see the old stripes easily to restripe, no need for chalk lines.
Gilsonite based sealers have been around for many years but lately some
manufacturers started using terms like rejuvenate because it's a buzzword these
days.
Great paint, price & service
From: ken
Date: 11/9/00 5:21:03 PM
I just had a pallet of paint bright red chlorinated rubber delivered from
American Industrial Coatings in Dallas, TX. In addition to being chlorinated
rubber, it is very bright red and never turns pink. I have no business
affiliation with them....just like the product a lot. Their number is 214 752
3900.
From: straightline
Date: 11/12/00 7:19:39 PM
what's the price on that red
From: ken
Date: 11/13/00 6:27:59 PM
Less than $12
BRIGHT
PAINTS?
From: NIGHTVISIONS
Date: 11/29/00 3:56:30 AM
HEY GUYS, I SAW SOME COMPETITION THE OTHER DAY, SEEMED THEIR PAINT WAS BRIGHTER.
I WOULD LIKE TO USE THIS TYPE PAINT IF IT IS CHEAP ($5.50 TO $6.00 GALLON). I
HAVE 2 QUESTIONS. 1. SHOULD I WORRY ABOUT THIS BRIGHT PAINT AT ALL 2. COULD IT
BE IT WASN'T BRIGHTER BUT JUST WAS DONE ON CURBING THAT ALREADY HAD A GOOD COAT
ON IT? I HAVE TALKED TO 3 COMPANIES AND USED 2 DIFFERENT BRANDS, SINCE I STARTED
A MONTH AGO, AND THEY ALL LOOK THE SAME, I HEARD I SHOULD LOOK FOR "HIGH
VISIBILITY"
From: Don
Date: 11/29/00 8:40:34 AM
First if you are starting out (low volume) and paying $6 a gallon for paint it's
probably trash. The only way good paint gets anywhere near that cheap is in
quantity. Different brands and types of paint have different shades and some are
brighter than others. As far as what to charge (your other post) figure your
paint costs, how long it takes you, and what your labor is worth. Then add your
overhead like insurance, gas etc. and something for profit and divide by the
units (feet, arrows, or whatever). That's the only way to know what YOU must
charge to stay in business.
From: nightvisions
Date: 12/16/00 12:34:04 AM
I beg to differ DON, the paint is from FRANKLIN PAINT
COMPANY, I have used other brands, and this seems to be an excellent, fast
drying, durable paint, even when it's not the FAST DRY stuff. of course i have
yet to try STANDARD PAINT which is where my next order probably will come from
seeing as UPS shipping costs are eating me up from MASS., TO La., I have Another
STRIPING FRIEND on this site who says he aggrees FPC is very good paint, The
price i get is for 100 gallons or more but i never have to order 100 gal., to
get the price.
Please tell me what paint you use, and how much it costs
you, because i'm interested in what you feel the price should be.
From: Bookman
Date: 1/1/01 7:25:15 PM
Atta Boy NV. Hold your ground. After all, the price you pay for paint has very
little to do with the real criteria a Journeyman uses in paint selection - and
you’ve already covered most of it. Personally, I really can’t imagine an
experienced PMC categorically rejecting a paint on price alone, especially in
light of your experience. It’s really hard to know who to trust, so just follow
your gut instincts.
Personally, I’ve never used Franklin Pint, nor have I
purchased anything from them. However, I am very well acquainted with the
company and its owner (or honcho) George Brophy, because he has exhibited at the
Expo for as long as I can remember. The thing I respect most about him is that
he aggressively participates in all of the Stripers Roundtables, and I believe
the sealcoater’s as well. He is the kind of person who will stand up in a crowd
and call a spade a spade. And since he knows how to do the work, most “pretty
boy” stripers and competing salesmen won’t make a serious challenge to his
advice - at least in such a setting. I think he represents our industry very
well.
In your pursuit to find the best paint at the best price,
here is some better advice:
1) Make “paper” comparisons. Request MSD sheets from every
supplier and see what is in the paint, as well as its percentage - just as you
might compare “brand” name products against house brands or generic.
2) Use a spiral bound notebook to compile notes of your
jobs - the dates, weather conditions (before, during and after the job), as well
as how the paint functions in your machine(s).
3) Ask each potential supplier about their PAINT GUARANTEE
and RETURN POLICY BEFORE DOING BUSINESS WITH THEM.
4) Ask about price breaks. The breaks may be based on
pails, gallons, one time purchases, pallets, volume over the entire season, etc.
One product I buy comes 36 pails per pallet, but I’m invoiced for 35. At about
$130 per pail, the “freebie” just about covers motor freight which beats hell
out of UPS prices. If money is tight, be sure to request the price of the motor
freight before you order.
Perhaps the best advice I can give you is to avoid
directing your main focus on the cost of the paint you use. Use a paint you feel
comfortable with, and concentrate on SELLING your service. And Good Luck with
your new machines!
CONTACT FOR "STANDARD PAINT"
From: NIGHTVISION
Date: 12/6/00 11:27:01 PM
Cam Robert or anyone give me the contact number to STANDARD PAINT in DALLAS, And
a contact for AMERICAN INDUSTRIAL COATINGS. I NEED THE WEB LINKS TOO.
Thanks, Chris
From: Don
Date: 12/9/00 1:31:06 PM
Just to provide info the new number for Standard Paints Inc. (the manufacturer,
they sell factory direct too) in Mansfield is 817-477-5060. I've never heard of
American Industrial but I bet they started distributing Standard after they
moved. Mansfield is about an hour from their old plant location near downtown
Dallas and since my guess would be that the majority of striping paint used in
Dallas was Standard they didn't want to lose that market. Also for everyone’s
info they make a semi-gloss striping paint that looks better than anything I've
ever used. It's a little higher but it stays looking good longer. Use common
sense though, it can be a little slippery when wet if you do a solid ramp or
tight spaced walkway hatching.
Polyester and Epoxy Paints
From: Needs to Know
Date: 4/24/00 12:11:38 PM
Has anyone ever put down either Polyester or Epoxy Paints?
What type of equipment is needed? Can either of these paints be put thru a
regular walk behind striper or is this for the roads machines only? I would
appreciate any info that anyone has.
From: stripe
Date: 4/24/00 3:56:25 PM
we have applied a two part epoxy from sherwin williams
through our graco airless machine. It did a fine job. Make sure after your
finished clean machine out using a strong cleaner recommended by your paint
supplier
From: sdechene
Date: 4/24/00 7:46:02 PM
Polyesters and epoxy paints are nothing to be afraid of,
but a little caution is advisable. Any machine given providing sufficient
material pressure to the tip should be adequate. We've sprayed epoxy paints with
both pressurized and airless machines with good results. My recommendations are
to have ALL the layout and prep work done prior to mixing and putting the paint
in the machine. The idea is to get the painting done and the machine flushed
promptly so that there's no danger of having the material begin to "kick" while
still in the machine. I suggest using a very strong solvent such as Xylene to
flush with. A 2 stage flush using Ketone and Toluene also works well. Once I'm
ready to flush, I prefer to disconnect my paint line from the gun and let the
thinner recirculate into the bucket for about 10 minutes. This provides an
outlet for any of the larger particles that may have coagulated instead of
getting trapped in the gun. Also, I've found that if you're using an airless,
the in-line filter will end up in the trash afterwards. One more tip: As some of
the formulas of 2-part coatings are quite thick, it can be difficult to get them
to spray a really nice looking line simply because the tip can't fully atomize
them. My solution has been to use whatever solvent you're using to clean up with
and thin the body of the paint, very judiciously, prior to adding the resin. You
can kill 2 birds with one stone by rinsing your buckets, given how expensive
some of this stuff is.
From: MI Striper
Date: 4/25/00 7:42:55 PM
I've had limited experience (hardly an expert) with
polyester paint when I striped long line with a truck. The polyester paint needs
a catalyst in order to dry. I believe organic peroxide is mainly used. This must
be sprayed on top of the paint. You could rig up an air atomized machine to do
the job since essentially its just a small version of a paint truck. Here in
Michigan, the state is phasing out the use of polyester paint on the roads since
it's such nasty stuff. Whatever you do, when you paint polyester, WEAR a
respirator. It didn't get the nickname two stinky sisters (poly and ester) for
nothing. Good Luck, Mike
From: Cormac
Date: 4/30/00 10:15:12 PM
The catalyst is typically MEKP and I would not spray it
with an airless as it is "shock sensitive" and can actually explode from the
piston slamming the MEKP in a run dry scenario or if the pump happen to cavitate.
From: sserna@billposs.com
Date: 12/5/00 7:05:13 PM
I need to find one to coat patinaed metals in exterior
exposure locations.
Steve Serna
CHLORINATED RUBBER PAINT
From: OKIE
Date: 4/28/00 1:24:43 PM
WILL BE USING CHLORINATED RUBBER PAINT FOR THE FIRST TIME
THIS WEEK. IS THERE ANY PRECAUTIONS, ADVICE, OR PECULIAR CHARACTERISTICS I NEED
TO KNOW ABOUT? THANKS
From: Gazza
Date: 4/28/00 4:57:51 PM
The most important tip, thoroughly clean machine with
xylene or tolurol both before and after application of chlor rubber, never allow
any contamination between alkyd and chlor rubber paints or thinners. Do this and
you should have a clear run.
From: Don
Date: 4/29/00 8:47:57 AM
Perhaps Robert could offer more advice, he uses more CR
than we do. The cross contamination thing has never been a problem for us, it's
not nearly as critical as alkyd/latex mixing. You must use a "hotter" thinner
though, toluene is generally the mfg.'s recommendation. Remember CR dries best
in cooler weather or low light such as night striping. Hot afternoon- direct
sun, it will usually not perform as well as conventional alkyds.
From: Robert Liles
Date: 4/29/00 6:07:48 PM
We use waterborne 1952D when we can, and chlorinated rubber
when we can't because of low temp or high humidity. Mineral spirits will clean
CR just fine, but it takes longer and more solvent than using recommended
thinner. However we can purchase a lower grade of lacquer thinner for less than
we can purchase toluene and that's what we use most of the time. You don't have
to follow mfg's recommendation on thinning, because you aren't thinning, just
cleaning machine. We do a good cleanup when we switch paint types, followed by a
short flush with the solvent for the paint we are switching to. i.e. waterbased
to CR, we will clean with water, and then flush with mineral spirits, check
filters, then introduce the CR paint.
Thin Paint:
From:
Date: 8/17/00 8:11:44 AM
Can anyone tell me why my latex Sherwin-Williams paint is as thin as water? I
even used a 315 tip in the striper and it hardly covers the sealer. looks to me
as if it was watered down and I made sure not to put the return line water back
in because it looked so thin.
From: BobbyTox
Date: 8/17/00 5:53:05 PM
I with you on that nameless one. I bought a new striper from them and they gave
me 25 gallons of paint free. 20 gallons of white and 5 of yellow. Of the white,
15 gallons was totally useless it was so watery thin and it had been shaken up.
It messed up my jobs so bad and cost me a lot of time. I will really have to be
desperate to buy SW water base again. I used the oil base and had no problems
with it but the water...that was another story.
From: Don
Date: 8/17/00 10:13:02 PM
I just shot a job today... SW SetFast Acrylic Latex over fresh sealcoat...
Thinned about 10% with water, 2 coats, airless spray (2 thin coats works better
over fresh sealer) no problems. This SW paint is what we use regularly over
sealer/fresh asphalt. I prefer it over anything else. Check your
tips/application rates etc. It's good paint. (Our SW dealer keeps it fresh and
always shakes it).
From: Robert Liles
Date: 8/18/00 6:44:33 AM
We use a lot of Sherwin-Willy waterbased paint, have never had trouble with it
being too thin. It's not always fresh and well mixed, but it's not too thin.
Have used waterbased from other companies that specialize in traffic paint, and
they were all thinner than SW. The SW paint we get is called Setfast Acrylic, or
Setfast Fast Dry.
From: Robert Liles
Date: 8/18/00 6:44:33 AM
We use a lot of Sherwin-Willy waterbased paint, have never had trouble with it
being too thin. It's not always fresh and well mixed, but it's not too thin.
Have used waterbased from other companies that specialize in traffic paint, and
they were all thinner than SW. The SW paint we get is called Setfast Acrylic, or
Setfast Fast Dry.
From: rrline
Date: 8/19/00 3:05:31 PM
We use S-W TM2160/2161.Does anybody know the difference between this and the
TM2159 besides the large price difference? And if anybody uses the 2160/2161
what is your approx. price per gallon? Thanks!
From: tomtom
Date: 8/19/00 8:19:10 AM
I can say that I have used Sherwin-Willams Tm 225 & TM 226
latex paint before this and have had no problem as for the dates there none and
most of the paint latex or oil one can never read the dates as they are always
blurred or not there. I did find # 01360 which should be year 2001 day 360 on
and one #01610 I also looked n the oil based and found # 1790te . These numbers
are 3/4 the way up the pail in black markings. If these are the dates I must be
mistaken but 2001 hasn't arrived yet or I have had mo!!!!!re than my share or
Bud. "Sober me up please" It is just like spraying colored water.
From: City
Date: 8/19/00 5:00:57 PM
That's why I switched to a local paint mfg. Every bucket i purchase is only a
few days or weeks old. No suprise price changes like SW either. Two years ago
the local SW store got a new manager and new prices too. I had already sent my
price sheets to the local sealers and pavers early that spring. I was suprised
to find out my paint cost was .15 cents more per gallon than the previous year.
Wasn't much but enough to start me looking elsewhere for paint.:::: Just can't
believe all the money I'm saving by not having to buy strainers.
From: Fonz
Date: 8/20/00 12:45:26 PM
So sorry.......I had the numbers reversed....here's the deal. The number should
read something like......M1310A the "131" means it was manufactured on the 131st
day..........there is only a single digit for the year....so......"0" means the
year 2000.If it were 1999 the number would be M1319A. For 1998 it would be
M1318A So sorry for the misinformation.....My screw up as usual.
Jpanz !! Did I get it right this time????
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