Note: these archives were compiled from past Parking Lot Planet Forums. The answers and opinions are those of the posters. Things may have changed since then, so be sure to get up to date information from the current Parking Lot Planet forum

Waterbase: True or False?

Sherwin Williams

Red Paint

Aexcel White Fast Dry Waterborne Traffic Safety Paint

Solvent or Waterbase

Great paint, price & service

Bright paints?

Polyester and Epoxy Paints

Chlorinated rubber paint

Thin Paint:

Waterbase: True or False?

From: Patrick
Date: 11/21/99 8:54:32 PM
Most people use Waterbase Paint? And why Thanks to all who reply!!!


From: RandyV
Date: 11/21/99 8:55:34 PM
Hey Mikey O, Maybe you have a high sensitivity to the certain type of water-based paint you tried. The use of a respirator in my opinion is not an option for this application. Your employees need to go through medical monitoring and be fitted / trained in the proper use of a respirator or you may end up with bigger problems than you are trying to avoid. OSHA has much to say about the use of such personal protection devices and the prerequisites for their use.

As for trying water-based paints, we use an airless (Graco LineLaser)with LLT317 tips. The tips are a bit small in orifice size but we find that we can paint a straighter line when we walk slower. It is also easier to start/stop on our marks without shingles with the smaller orifice tips.

As for leakage from your tips, we only have that problem when the faces of the gun & washers are not clean. Hell We have been using the same washers all summer with no problem. Our line quality is great until the tips get worn but that happens with any tip.

The paint we use regularly is made by Excel and although it seems to have a lot of "crap" in it that plugs up our filter, it applies well and seems to be lasting good. We have had a couple of jobs that required Sherwin Williams and I love their Lead-free fast dry traffic paint (I forget the number). It applies great, has no crap in it but as with any lead free, it is dull. It is also much more expensive than the Excel we use.

Water-based paint in our opinion is the only way to go unless conditions or customers demand solvent based but we each must use what works best for us to give the customer a quality product and job.



Date: 11/21/99 8:59:37 PM
This would depend on your area. A lot of chlorinated rubber is still being used. Chlorinated rubber is preferred two to one according to sales by major distributors in the industry. Water base and chlorinated is a user / customer choice at this point. A lot of people began using waterbase due to the rumors that the feds would disallow the manufacturing of it. The truth is that the chlorinated rubber paints will still be manufactured, but not allowed to be shipped in containers larger than five gallons. They hope this would cause the larger "road" contractors to switch. It ain't gonna happen. Many contractors already by in fives and transfer to drums.


Date: 11/21/99 9:00:26 PM
Waterbase Latex all the way - - clean-up is with water and there is no possibility of fire, contamination (Naptha is a carcinogen) - no solvents to dispose of. The negative is this time of year (Michigan) it gets real rough with low temps and dew points trying to use waterbase paints


From: City
Date: 11/25/99 11:20:30 PM
They pretty much covered it, I have to agree. latex is great for warm weather it dries fast, recommended for over sealcoat applications and most important, easy, less toxic clean up. on the other hand alkyd has its advantages. holds its brightness better, lines do not "scuff" or get dirty as much as latex, seems to spray a sharper line and I have striped in drizzle and snow flurries (you could never do that with latex). try both, you decide what’s best for you.


From: HH
Date: 11/28/99 9:43:09 PM
I agree with city. You will have to use both ALKYD & LATEX. If you have a problem with the disposal of solvents used on ALKYD, then let the paint settle to the bottom of a container and recycle the solvent. Let paint in the bottom dry, then get rid of the paint. Airless machine spray latex very good, but they may have an overspray problem on certain ALKYD paints. I have a problem with getting rid of the colored water that I clean out of my machine when using LATEX. What does everyone else do with the water?


From: Don
Date: 1/14/00 8:30:31 AM
Use the type paint suited for the job. Over new asphalt pavement or fresh sealcoating (less than 1 year)ALWAYS use latex. Latex yellow also seems to hold the original color better. Latex will not hold well on oily pavements but may hold better on new concrete if the alkali is high. Chlorinated rubber is best at night or in cooler weather. It will dry better then but dry slower it hot sun. Alkyd will perform well all around. Some states (TX and CA) no longer allow solvent paints on state highways but that doesn't usually affect parking lots. The clean up water is often harder to properly dispose of than solvent as solvent can be reused after it settles. Also remember virtually all yellow striping paint contains lead (the most hazardous thing you will encounter). Also never store your machine (especially if it's airless) with water in it. Always store with mineral spirits in the lines and a light oil like WD40 in the pump.


Sherwin Williams

From: Very uhnhappy striper
Date: 12/4/99 7:25:18 PM
Yesterday at 9:00 am I striped one stall and a hash out with Sherwin Pro Mar Alkyd tinted blue. It has been in the 50's of a day and in the 40's at night. It was even warmer yesterday. After I painted the lines, I left it coned off for 1 and 1/2 hours. It rained later in the afternoon. Today it is coming off in little pieces. This is the second time this year that I have bought paint from Sherwin W. that after it has been tinted, will not adhere. I tried it on a piece of cardboard and after 30 hours I can still pick it off with my finger nails. I have been striping for many years and this is the first year I have ever had this happen. Please don't give advise on cleaning the lot. It is not the lot. It's the paint. I bought this paint from the same place I have for years. They have no answer. My customer has many lots that I was in the first stages of doing, but now? I need a good supplier with a good product every time! Any ideas????????


From: Ken
Date: 12/5/99 8:42:27 AM
I have used SW alkyd (tinted blue) with mixed results. I started to reorder a pail and was discouraged by the SW rep. 'Something about the tint (although minute) affected the adhering qualities adversely. I an not defending SW, just reporting the info. Until recently, I have been an exclusive SW customer and tended to look down my nose at the local paint manufacturer "STANDARD PAINT" out of Dallas. Previously, I had to use their paint on a few occasions due to the local SW stores running out of paint (can you imagine?). I have had tremendous luck with "Standard". It lays down well, available in chlorinated rubber (in most colors), their CR red does not turn pink, and is much cheaper than SW. They always have paint and it is always fresh. I have yet to find any solids on the bottom of a pail.

Hope this helps! Good luck!


From: jpanz
Date: 12/5/99 8:55:37 PM
One problem might be that they are using interior tint for your paint. All paint specs say to only use exterior tint nothing else.

If you only use Sherwin Williams, try buying their blue handicap paint. Its premixed from the factory and I have not had any problems in three years of using it. Their product number is TM2133.

Good Luck.

Jim P


From: CW
Date: 12/6/99 11:16:15 AM
I feel your paint brother! Call Safety Coatings! They undoubtedly have the best paint I've ever used. Its possible they have a dealer in your area. Phone: 1-800-557-8810

Try to use a paint that is manufactured by someone who specializes in traffic marking paint and not house paint! You'll be amazed at the difference.


From: linestripe
Date: 2/25/00 12:35:47 PM
Most problems I have with paint I think are due to high humidity. No matter what the temperature is, if the humidity is up I see flaking problems.


From: Can stripe
Date: 3/12/00 3:14:21 PM
I have run into this problem before and this is what I found. If it is setfast that has been tinted blue the problem is the temperature its to cold and will do just what you have described.


Red Paint

From: J in Tx.
Date: 2/23/00 7:19:04 PM
What is the best red to use that doesn't turn pink in a few months.


From: Robert
Date: 2/23/00 9:20:08 PM
The guys (and gals) at sherwinWilly give me great service and good paint, but their alkyd red turns pink in a few months in direct sunlight. I learned at the Expo in Louisville that they have changed the pigmentation of their red. However I have been using their waterborne red with good results. But I have also been using alkyd (oil-based) red from Technical Coatings and it seems to have better pigments. They hold their red color very well.


From: Ken
Date: 2/24/00 8:22:45 AM
I have had good luck with the red semi-gloss chlorinated rubber from Standard Paint in Dallas.



From: Don
Date: 3/1/00 9:19:46 AM
Yest the chlorinated rubber from Standard Paints (Dallas) holds color well as does a latex paint made by Neyra Industries in Cleburne TX. Don't worry the Neyra paint looks sick when you open the bucket... it dries red and they tell me the chemistry that makes it look funny wet is what helps it hold it's color better.


Aexcel White Fast Dry Waterborne Traffic Safety Paint

From: Mike
Date: 6/25/00 4:47:06 PM
My first and last time try. At first I liked it after my machine And I excepted the change. I had the paint shooked and found 2" of solids on the bottom, after I was done . I tried machine stirring and my drill would not turn it. I added 2 1/2 cups of water and still had a hard time stirring. After all this I tried Straining the paint and it clogged the new strainer. When I cleaned my machine my 2nd filter was almost completely clogged. I assume this is not normal. What would cause it to be like this?


From: City
Date: 6/25/00 11:17:01 PM
I am not familiar with Aexcel but from my experience with S.W. I suspect that the paint you got must be very old. Since I changed paint mfg. to a local brand I don’t have to strain my paint anymore. I have never gotten a batch of paint that is older than a few days. This stuff is so fresh, my screens don't get clogged like they did with S.W. Guess I’m one of the lucky ones to be able to have access to fresh paint. You should be able to get good results from straining before you spray it. When I was using S.W. I always had to strain every gallon otherwise I would have to keep replacing screens.


From: Mike
Date: 6/29/00 10:15:33 PM
What is the shelf life on waterbase and oil base paints? My rep say it is fine so long as it does not freeze.


Date: 6/25/00 11:22:39 PM


From: Randy
Date: 7/10/00 6:57:05 PM
Hey Mike, We have been using Aexcel for almost 2 years now and have had very good luck with almost all of it. I think you must have gotten a bad batch (or an old one). We received a whole pallet of yellow regular dry Aexcel Latex late last season and immediately started having problems. At first I thought that we were experiencing freezing tips (we are in MI and it was November around 30 deg). The tip would plug regularly. Well, we still had some of this paint left this spring and low and behold, we still had tip clogging problems. The problem vanished when that batch of paint was gone but let me tell you it was a real bitch having the tip plug almost every other line. We strained, went to a finer strainer in our Graco, replaced hoses, tips hell we tried everything but just when we were ready to commit HariKari, we got into the new paint and everything was great. The next time we have that problem, we will return the batch and demand an exchange (and credit on freight).

On a side note, we still use Aexcel as our regular paint and use SW when we are painting to MDOT specifications. We NEVER thin the Aexcel but regularly have to thin the SW.



Date: 7/11/00 9:37:54 AM
I've had the same problems with trash. 'Tried it twice....I'll never use it again.



Solvent or Waterbase

From: Tru Trac
Date: 10/1/00 6:14:01 PM
I just started doing some work for a Sealcoater who uses an oil base sealcoat. I was told that I should use a Solvent type paint which I did. My question is can I use latex instead. I had a lot of trouble with the solvent. It was Sherwin Williams and it so thin I had to apply two coats and an awful lot of overspray I couldn't get rid. Any help would be great. He has quite a few more jobs to be done.


From: Robert
Date: 10/1/00 6:45:33 PM
Latex should be fine. About the paint you used, was it well mixed? The only time I've seen Sherwin Williams paint be thin was when it wasn't mixed and there was a lot of solids in the bottom.


From: Don
Date: 10/1/00 7:02:06 PM
First off there is no such thing as "oil based" or "water based" sealer. "Emulsion" type sealers have the base ingredients, either, coal-tar or asphalt, suspended in water. Some rarely-seen sealers contain solvents (usually mineral spirits) as the carrier for the base ingredients (primarily a mineral called Gilsonite). I have heard the term "oil based" sealers in other discussion groups but since oil easily dissolves asphalt it wouldn't make sense. (The same is true of Gilsonite products due to the solvent. They're mostly used by people who sealcoat when it's too cold for regular sealers.)As far as paint almost all major sealcoat manufacturers specify the use of latex paint only. If the sealer is very slick/shiny/glossy black it might be Gilsonite based. I do not know what they advise but it stands to reason that since it contains solvent a solvent based paint might be required. For some on-line articles about sealers, terms, spec's etc. visit is


From: tomtom
Date: 10/1/00 8:51:23 PM
Could you also explain what happens and why when one uses alkyd paint when it calls for latex and also alkyd when it calls for latex. I have seen the paint turn brown when using alkyd white instead of latex on the wrong kind of sealer. The alkyd paint pulled the sealer color up thru to the top. what happens when you use yellow alkyd paint on the "Waterbased" sealer as it does not turn color?


From: Fonz
Date: 10/1/00 11:18:13 PM
I'm sure my ignorance is showing again, but I question Don's thinking on the last two sentences of his reply. I guess my thinking is a little different. Solvent sealer with solvent paint?? me the two would interact...bleed and blend together. But water is basically inert. Water based paints may not adhere..stick or hold to solvent sealer, but at least they wouldn't interact together. I'm out of my league here and have no real experience with the product so it's just a hunch on my part as to the outcome of solvent sealer and solvent respect to Don and his more informed opinion......................Fonz


From: Don
Date: 10/2/00 6:42:41 AM
Good question Fonz, it's like this. Similar materials are generally compatible with one another. For example, and to answer the previous question at the same time, alkyd paint turns brownish on conventional coal-tar sealer (yellow does it too, it just doesn't show up as bad)because of a chemical reaction between the solvents and oils in the paint and the coal-tar. Coal-tar and oils are not chemically similar so the coal-tar tries to "repel" the paint. Remember latex paint is not really water "based" as much as it is water "borne". Meaning the paint itself is left after the water evaporates. Solvented paints are similar but the evaporation of the solvent is a chemical action rather than the actual drying action of water. Asphalt-based sealer suffers from the same effects solvent paint has on asphalt. It tries to "eat through" the sealer. The very hard Gilsonite material may tend to repel the latex while the solvent in the paint would let it bond the way the sealer ingredients originally did. (I looked all over the 'net and couldn't find a Gilsonite sealer mfg. with a paint spec. on their site.) Have you ever noticed those "cracks" down the sides of the stripes on an older, restriped, asphalt lot? They're caused by the oils in the paint breaking down the asphalt with repeated striping. In a perfect world where the weather was always low-humidity and warm, the pavement was always clean, and drying time was not a concern, good latex paints would almost always out-perform solvent type paints. For more info look in the article "Understanding how sealcoating works" at under the paragraph "why seal asphalt?".


Date: 10/2/00 6:52:06 AM
I always thought those cracks were from expanding and contracting of the asphalt. due to the paint covering the asphalt there are to different temperatures so when the asphalt covered with paint contracts and expands at a different rate a crack would form.


From: Don
Date: 10/2/00 7:15:03 AM
Paint is so thin (compared to the pavement) there is very little temperature difference in the surfaces, nowhere near enough to cause that type cracking. Also the paint being weaker it would break first as sometimes happens when paint builds up too thick on concrete pavement. The oils weaken the asphalt surface then the shrinking during drying pulls the surface crack (this is usually a long-term effect). You can see other things such as similar surface cracking if you paint a thick coat of latex on very hot new asphalt. The asphalt hasn't had time to cure and harden, and the over-rapid contraction during drying of the paint can pull small cracks in the surface. To avoid this use two thin coats instead of a thick coat or paint when the surface is cooler.


From: HH
Date: 10/5/00 2:35:11 PM


From: jpanz
Date: 10/5/00 8:19:56 PM
Oil Based is thinner then latex? All the oil I ever used has been much thicker.



From: Don
Date: 10/6/00 10:38:35 AM
I guess it depends on the brands etc. Usually we find latex thicker but one brand of alkyd we use is thicker than that latex. One thing about oil bases is they spray easier so you can use finer filters and lower pressure even if they're thicker. I don't really understand the chemistry of it but it's true for other paints like house paint as well.


From: straightline
Date: 10/2/00 2:35:08 AM
I would just stay home on this one, they are probably using some very cheep black gloss paint, I have tried to paint on this before and the stripes lasted just long enough for the check to clear, this stuff costs less then sealcoat and wont even stick to the asphalt.


From: Bookman
Date: 10/3/00 9:51:23 PM
When you work for ANY contractor, I suggest you ask him EXACTLY what BRAND and TYPE of sealer/rejuvenator he uses. If you are not familiar with the product, ask HIM what paint he prefers you use. That puts the monkey on his back. If he can't or won't give you an answer, why would you consider doing more than a test stripe or two? Bulk Gilsonite has not been available in my city (probably the state of Kentucky as well), but I've seen it at various Expos. There was a company at Expo 2000 (in the vicinity of the SnoWay booth) that offered a similar product. I can't recall Gilsonite or any similar company saying they were sealcoaters per se, because they stress the fact that their products actually PENETRATE the pavement. As I recall, their samples showed a depth penetration of about 1/4 inch. Neither coal tar nor asphalt emulsion actually penetrate the pavement, hence the name sealCOAT. The company at Expo 00 showed photos of commercial parking lots that were striped with both white & yellow paint. The photos had good color & well-defined edges. The company shouldn't be hard to find if anyone still has their Expo booklet w/exhibitor names. I'm guessing whatever paint works on their product should work on your jobs. I can't believe SW can't or won't help you on this.

By the way TruTrac, when you have a problem like this, it says to return the pail to the dealer for an explanation. But be sure to pour a little bit into a clean container just in case your dealer "loses" the pail you returned.


From: Don
Date: 10/6/00 1:15:00 PM
Everybody's got claims. Any product that penetrated 1/4" into asphalt would ruin not rejuvenate the pavement. The solvents in these type products can destroy asphalt if they are over-applied. I know most folks on this board are strictly stripers and their concern is getting the paint to stick, but for info so-called rejuvenators come and go every few years. They're a gimmick although contractors that don't mind selling snake oil love the high profits they get from them. Pavement magazine had a great article a year or so ago where a couple of big "rejuvenator" contractors told how great the profits were (3-4 times more than sealcoating). They mentioned striping was easier because the stuff is so thin you can see the old stripes easily to restripe, no need for chalk lines. Gilsonite based sealers have been around for many years but lately some manufacturers started using terms like rejuvenate because it's a buzzword these days.


Great paint, price & service

From: ken
Date: 11/9/00 5:21:03 PM
I just had a pallet of paint bright red chlorinated rubber delivered from American Industrial Coatings in Dallas, TX. In addition to being chlorinated rubber, it is very bright red and never turns pink. I have no business affiliation with them....just like the product a lot. Their number is 214 752 3900.


From: straightline
Date: 11/12/00 7:19:39 PM

what's the price on that red


From: ken
Date: 11/13/00 6:27:59 PM
Less than $12



Date: 11/29/00 3:56:30 AM


From: Don
Date: 11/29/00 8:40:34 AM
First if you are starting out (low volume) and paying $6 a gallon for paint it's probably trash. The only way good paint gets anywhere near that cheap is in quantity. Different brands and types of paint have different shades and some are brighter than others. As far as what to charge (your other post) figure your paint costs, how long it takes you, and what your labor is worth. Then add your overhead like insurance, gas etc. and something for profit and divide by the units (feet, arrows, or whatever). That's the only way to know what YOU must charge to stay in business.


From: nightvisions
Date: 12/16/00 12:34:04 AM

I beg to differ DON, the paint is from FRANKLIN PAINT COMPANY, I have used other brands, and this seems to be an excellent, fast drying, durable paint, even when it's not the FAST DRY stuff. of course i have yet to try STANDARD PAINT which is where my next order probably will come from seeing as UPS shipping costs are eating me up from MASS., TO La., I have Another STRIPING FRIEND on this site who says he aggrees FPC is very good paint, The price i get is for 100 gallons or more but i never have to order 100 gal., to get the price.

Please tell me what paint you use, and how much it costs you, because i'm interested in what you feel the price should be.


From: Bookman
Date: 1/1/01 7:25:15 PM
Atta Boy NV. Hold your ground. After all, the price you pay for paint has very little to do with the real criteria a Journeyman uses in paint selection - and you’ve already covered most of it. Personally, I really can’t imagine an experienced PMC categorically rejecting a paint on price alone, especially in light of your experience. It’s really hard to know who to trust, so just follow your gut instincts.

Personally, I’ve never used Franklin Pint, nor have I purchased anything from them. However, I am very well acquainted with the company and its owner (or honcho) George Brophy, because he has exhibited at the Expo for as long as I can remember. The thing I respect most about him is that he aggressively participates in all of the Stripers Roundtables, and I believe the sealcoater’s as well. He is the kind of person who will stand up in a crowd and call a spade a spade. And since he knows how to do the work, most “pretty boy” stripers and competing salesmen won’t make a serious challenge to his advice - at least in such a setting. I think he represents our industry very well.

In your pursuit to find the best paint at the best price, here is some better advice:

1) Make “paper” comparisons. Request MSD sheets from every supplier and see what is in the paint, as well as its percentage - just as you might compare “brand” name products against house brands or generic.

2) Use a spiral bound notebook to compile notes of your jobs - the dates, weather conditions (before, during and after the job), as well as how the paint functions in your machine(s).

3) Ask each potential supplier about their PAINT GUARANTEE and RETURN POLICY BEFORE DOING BUSINESS WITH THEM.

4) Ask about price breaks. The breaks may be based on pails, gallons, one time purchases, pallets, volume over the entire season, etc. One product I buy comes 36 pails per pallet, but I’m invoiced for 35. At about $130 per pail, the “freebie” just about covers motor freight which beats hell out of UPS prices. If money is tight, be sure to request the price of the motor freight before you order.

Perhaps the best advice I can give you is to avoid directing your main focus on the cost of the paint you use. Use a paint you feel comfortable with, and concentrate on SELLING your service. And Good Luck with your new machines!



Date: 12/6/00 11:27:01 PM
Cam Robert or anyone give me the contact number to STANDARD PAINT in DALLAS, And a contact for AMERICAN INDUSTRIAL COATINGS. I NEED THE WEB LINKS TOO.

Thanks, Chris


From: Don
Date: 12/9/00 1:31:06 PM
Just to provide info the new number for Standard Paints Inc. (the manufacturer, they sell factory direct too) in Mansfield is 817-477-5060. I've never heard of American Industrial but I bet they started distributing Standard after they moved. Mansfield is about an hour from their old plant location near downtown Dallas and since my guess would be that the majority of striping paint used in Dallas was Standard they didn't want to lose that market. Also for everyone’s info they make a semi-gloss striping paint that looks better than anything I've ever used. It's a little higher but it stays looking good longer. Use common sense though, it can be a little slippery when wet if you do a solid ramp or tight spaced walkway hatching.


Polyester and Epoxy Paints

From: Needs to Know
Date: 4/24/00 12:11:38 PM

Has anyone ever put down either Polyester or Epoxy Paints? What type of equipment is needed? Can either of these paints be put thru a regular walk behind striper or is this for the roads machines only? I would appreciate any info that anyone has.


From: stripe
Date: 4/24/00 3:56:25 PM

we have applied a two part epoxy from sherwin williams through our graco airless machine. It did a fine job. Make sure after your finished clean machine out using a strong cleaner recommended by your paint supplier


From: sdechene
Date: 4/24/00 7:46:02 PM

Polyesters and epoxy paints are nothing to be afraid of, but a little caution is advisable. Any machine given providing sufficient material pressure to the tip should be adequate. We've sprayed epoxy paints with both pressurized and airless machines with good results. My recommendations are to have ALL the layout and prep work done prior to mixing and putting the paint in the machine. The idea is to get the painting done and the machine flushed promptly so that there's no danger of having the material begin to "kick" while still in the machine. I suggest using a very strong solvent such as Xylene to flush with. A 2 stage flush using Ketone and Toluene also works well. Once I'm ready to flush, I prefer to disconnect my paint line from the gun and let the thinner recirculate into the bucket for about 10 minutes. This provides an outlet for any of the larger particles that may have coagulated instead of getting trapped in the gun. Also, I've found that if you're using an airless, the in-line filter will end up in the trash afterwards. One more tip: As some of the formulas of 2-part coatings are quite thick, it can be difficult to get them to spray a really nice looking line simply because the tip can't fully atomize them. My solution has been to use whatever solvent you're using to clean up with and thin the body of the paint, very judiciously, prior to adding the resin. You can kill 2 birds with one stone by rinsing your buckets, given how expensive some of this stuff is.


From: MI Striper
Date: 4/25/00 7:42:55 PM

I've had limited experience (hardly an expert) with polyester paint when I striped long line with a truck. The polyester paint needs a catalyst in order to dry. I believe organic peroxide is mainly used. This must be sprayed on top of the paint. You could rig up an air atomized machine to do the job since essentially its just a small version of a paint truck. Here in Michigan, the state is phasing out the use of polyester paint on the roads since it's such nasty stuff. Whatever you do, when you paint polyester, WEAR a respirator. It didn't get the nickname two stinky sisters (poly and ester) for nothing. Good Luck, Mike


From: Cormac
Date: 4/30/00 10:15:12 PM

The catalyst is typically MEKP and I would not spray it with an airless as it is "shock sensitive" and can actually explode from the piston slamming the MEKP in a run dry scenario or if the pump happen to cavitate.


From:  This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
Date: 12/5/00 7:05:13 PM

I need to find one to coat patinaed metals in exterior exposure locations.

Steve Serna



From: OKIE
Date: 4/28/00 1:24:43 PM



From: Gazza
Date: 4/28/00 4:57:51 PM

The most important tip, thoroughly clean machine with xylene or tolurol both before and after application of chlor rubber, never allow any contamination between alkyd and chlor rubber paints or thinners. Do this and you should have a clear run.


From: Don
Date: 4/29/00 8:47:57 AM

Perhaps Robert could offer more advice, he uses more CR than we do. The cross contamination thing has never been a problem for us, it's not nearly as critical as alkyd/latex mixing. You must use a "hotter" thinner though, toluene is generally the mfg.'s recommendation. Remember CR dries best in cooler weather or low light such as night striping. Hot afternoon- direct sun, it will usually not perform as well as conventional alkyds.


From: Robert Liles
Date: 4/29/00 6:07:48 PM

We use waterborne 1952D when we can, and chlorinated rubber when we can't because of low temp or high humidity. Mineral spirits will clean CR just fine, but it takes longer and more solvent than using recommended thinner. However we can purchase a lower grade of lacquer thinner for less than we can purchase toluene and that's what we use most of the time. You don't have to follow mfg's recommendation on thinning, because you aren't thinning, just cleaning machine. We do a good cleanup when we switch paint types, followed by a short flush with the solvent for the paint we are switching to. i.e. waterbased to CR, we will clean with water, and then flush with mineral spirits, check filters, then introduce the CR paint.


Thin Paint:

Date: 8/17/00 8:11:44 AM
Can anyone tell me why my latex Sherwin-Williams paint is as thin as water? I even used a 315 tip in the striper and it hardly covers the sealer. looks to me as if it was watered down and I made sure not to put the return line water back in because it looked so thin.


From: BobbyTox
Date: 8/17/00 5:53:05 PM
I with you on that nameless one. I bought a new striper from them and they gave me 25 gallons of paint free. 20 gallons of white and 5 of yellow. Of the white, 15 gallons was totally useless it was so watery thin and it had been shaken up. It messed up my jobs so bad and cost me a lot of time. I will really have to be desperate to buy SW water base again. I used the oil base and had no problems with it but the water...that was another story.


From: Don
Date: 8/17/00 10:13:02 PM
I just shot a job today... SW SetFast Acrylic Latex over fresh sealcoat... Thinned about 10% with water, 2 coats, airless spray (2 thin coats works better over fresh sealer) no problems. This SW paint is what we use regularly over sealer/fresh asphalt. I prefer it over anything else. Check your tips/application rates etc. It's good paint. (Our SW dealer keeps it fresh and always shakes it).


From: Robert Liles
Date: 8/18/00 6:44:33 AM
We use a lot of Sherwin-Willy waterbased paint, have never had trouble with it being too thin. It's not always fresh and well mixed, but it's not too thin. Have used waterbased from other companies that specialize in traffic paint, and they were all thinner than SW. The SW paint we get is called Setfast Acrylic, or Setfast Fast Dry.


From: Robert Liles
Date: 8/18/00 6:44:33 AM
We use a lot of Sherwin-Willy waterbased paint, have never had trouble with it being too thin. It's not always fresh and well mixed, but it's not too thin. Have used waterbased from other companies that specialize in traffic paint, and they were all thinner than SW. The SW paint we get is called Setfast Acrylic, or Setfast Fast Dry.


From: rrline
Date: 8/19/00 3:05:31 PM
We use S-W TM2160/2161.Does anybody know the difference between this and the TM2159 besides the large price difference? And if anybody uses the 2160/2161 what is your approx. price per gallon? Thanks!


From: tomtom
Date: 8/19/00 8:19:10 AM

I can say that I have used Sherwin-Willams Tm 225 & TM 226 latex paint before this and have had no problem as for the dates there none and most of the paint latex or oil one can never read the dates as they are always blurred or not there. I did find # 01360 which should be year 2001 day 360 on and one #01610 I also looked n the oil based and found # 1790te . These numbers are 3/4 the way up the pail in black markings. If these are the dates I must be mistaken but 2001 hasn't arrived yet or I have had mo!!!!!re than my share or Bud. "Sober me up please" It is just like spraying colored water.


From: City
Date: 8/19/00 5:00:57 PM
That's why I switched to a local paint mfg. Every bucket i purchase is only a few days or weeks old. No suprise price changes like SW either. Two years ago the local SW store got a new manager and new prices too. I had already sent my price sheets to the local sealers and pavers early that spring. I was suprised to find out my paint cost was .15 cents more per gallon than the previous year. Wasn't much but enough to start me looking elsewhere for paint.:::: Just can't believe all the money I'm saving by not having to buy strainers.


From: Fonz
Date: 8/20/00 12:45:26 PM
So sorry.......I had the numbers's the deal. The number should read something like......M1310A the "131" means it was manufactured on the 131st day..........there is only a single digit for the"0" means the year 2000.If it were 1999 the number would be M1319A. For 1998 it would be M1318A So sorry for the misinformation.....My screw up as usual.

Jpanz !! Did I get it right this time????