Note: these archives were compiled from past Parking Lot Planet Forums. The answers and opinions are those of the posters. Things may have changed since then, so be sure to get up to date information from the current Parking Lot Planet forum
Painting Curbs and Concrete (it not what you think)
Painting concrete parking lot Whole Surface!!!
H & C Concrete Stain
Best paint to apply on a concrete surface
Date: 5/10/00 7:40:00 AM
I've got a potential customer that has a new 4800 sq. ft. lot that they're thinking about staining the entire surface in a matrix of 2 shades. Has anyone done anything like this?
From: Robert Liles
Date: 5/10/00 7:22:31 PM
We have done this to create an inexpensive alternative to a real tennis court finish. We used H&C stain from Sherwin Williams, but you might also check with Technical Coatings 770-740-8123
Painting Curbs and Concrete (it not what you think)
Date: 4/30/00 9:25:26 PM
I am doing work at a large mall and they found a product that is sprayed on fresh concrete as a primer coat, they the traffic paint goes on top. If anyone is interested in this stuff let me know and I will post the company info. I should have the info within a week.
Date: 4/30/00 9:49:35 PM
Hey Jim, have you ever looked into a concrete stain that is made by Sherwin Williams. SW bought a company a few years back called H&C Concrete stain that made a stain for airport runways. The advantages of a stain that soaks into the concrete (and won't peel) rather than creating a film (that typically does) on new concrete could be awesome. Just an idea.
From: Robert Liles
Date: 5/1/00 9:01:19 PM
I've been using a concrete stain from the traffic paint company Technical Coatings in Alpharetta GA. I have used their red on unpainted concrete curbs and the blue on handicap ramps and pathways. It soaks into the concrete, requires two coats, but it makes a good bright color without changing the texture of the concrete, which is important on walkways. (won't make it slippery)
From: Ol Dave
Date: 5/2/00 7:33:42 AM
Robert, could you please post an address and phone number for this company. Thanks.
From: Here's the addy
Date: 5/2/00 8:49:20 PM
Technical Coatings POBox 1142 Alpharetta GA 30009 770-740-8123 Tell Wayne robertliles.com sent you. He might give you free shipping.
Date: 5/28/00 9:29:42 AM
I have 1800 feet of curbing to paint I am wondering if anyone paints curb (freehand) by that I mean as striping traffic lines? I find it hard to line up and just paint the curb with the guns tilted and using a 219 tip on each gun. I have seen it done in the video but can't get up enough nerve to screw up and make a mess.
Date: 5/28/00 10:30:38 AM
Striper's Tip: For any new procedure, if there is time, practice shooting water first. Granted, there is a difference in the texture of water & paint, but it will remove some of the nerves of doing new stuff & allow you to possibly fine-tune your methods & machine.
Date: 5/28/00 11:56:25 AM
Great tip Bookwoman!
Tom, seldom will you find that much curb consistently formed. That is, the height, width, slope almost always consistently varies. Demo videos show two guns makes it look easy. Not so in the real striping world. Seldom do we use two guns for anything except for large amounts of double stripes (new construction or a new layout on over sealcoat). ( A pox on double stripes!!!!)
If you use one gun to paint curbs, you can lay out a straighter line along the bottom of the curb where it meets the pavement in one pass. Then if you set the gun higher and at an angle, you can usually cover the upper curve and top of the curb (with a few adjustments) as you proceed.
I and an associate striper (Above & Beyond Striping) are presently finishing ~8000ft of curb (firelane) that varies in size about every 20 feet. It would have been a nightmare to make it look consistent (without painting some landscaping too) if I had used 2 guns.
Perhaps there are techniques that do work. I would be interested in hearing from the more seasoned stripers and their use of two guns. I know "THE" Old Pro has a dim view of double stripes. Maybe he can shed some light on using two guns on curbs.
Date: 5/29/00 10:12:50 AM
I always carry a few pieces of cardboard with me which I use for situations like this. The first 10 or 20 feet I place the narrow strips of cardboard next to the curb , align the gun and start spraying, stopping when necessary to make adjustments. by the time I reach the end of the cardboard I have the gun tweaked and machine positioned properly enough to give the rest of the curb a straight shot. I have been known to use masking tape in tricky spots or where my confidence level is not up to par, especially at a main entrance. If your helper didnt sweep a rock or two and you happen to roll over it creating a glitch in your masterpiece.. don’t worry, you can always go back and freehand here and there.
Date: 6/3/00 7:40:24 AM
Good advice on the cardboard. If you have a helper, even better than cardboard is a "spray board." We make them from 4 x 8 sheets of luan flooring plywood & cut hand holes in several places along the top. They are light in weight & the helper just walks along the edge of whatever you're spraying in time with the machine. You don't get overspray on non-target areas. This works with both painting & spraying asphalt sealer. The boards last for years & the bottom edge can easily be wiped clean as needed.
Date: 6/2/00 11:12:10 PM
I just finished 3300 feet of yellow curb for a small town in northern MN. I had never done much for this type of painting... learned a few things here on this web site before painting. Like others have said, turn the gun 180 degrees so the gun is near the rear tire, angle the gun so you are painting the bottom half of the curb. I started in a non-obvious place to find out how far I needed to be away from the curb or how close. Once I got the distance set, or use to it, I would paint a whole section of curb, like from one driveway to another. Then I would wheel the machine back to my starting point, remove the gun and paint the top side and around the top corner slightly down the vertical portion free hand as I walked along pushing the machine with the other hand. After a while I got so use to painting the top portion I didn't need to worry about painting the adjoining sidewalk next to the curb. I did the top free hand leaving the gun mount where I last left it so as not to screw up the position and what I had become accustomed to. One last thing, don't forget to double your price per foot as your going over each foot with two passes of paint. Good Luck!
Date: 6/4/00 9:39:53 PM
When we use 2 guns we will run the machine on top of side walk next to the curb, this will give you a clean smooth flat area to work off of and give you control of your guns.
We do a lot of store fronts. This work needs to be clean and neat. We always carry 15# felt paper cut in half(18" width), we put this next to the curb top and bottom and paint. It is fast clean and neat.
Someone said to double your price for 2 face curb painting. You may want to go 5-10 time your regular lin. ft. price for 2 face curb painting. You will use paint up fast to get a good coat of paint on.
Painting concrete parking lot Whole Surface!!!
Date: 6/21/00 1:46:48 AM
I have a lulu for some of you Ol Pros. I am a newcomer. Robert Great Job on the Site. Okay here is the deal. I am a employee of a company who has many properties. 3 yrs ago I tried to start my own striping company and did okay for a rookie but sold out to be a property manager. If I do this right I will become my own boss for good within 2 yrs. Now on with the problem. The company I work for has several parking lots that are concrete between 3 and 7 years old. They all have been restriped several times but the last time around they wanted the cracks sealed and so they did. However the company who seal it left a 4in black tar stripe everywhere there was a stripe. Now the franchise inspectors informed the company that the parking lots look like heck and have told the company to do something about it. So the original contractor repainted gray alkyd over the tar but it did not stick and now it looks worst. My boss had us paint one section black with Sherwin William Set Fast Alkyd Paint. And now my boss wants to paint the whole surface black and restripe them all with while lines instead of yellow including firelanes etc. I told him I would like to give him a bid to do the job. He said okay. The company has a national account with SW. So they cover the materials. I have since decided this could be a shot for me to get back in the business right instead of using a pump up striper. I have bought a Titan Promark 5500 with 2 guns. With this unit I should be able to shoot a 18-24 inch swipe with the black. Do any of you have any experience with painting the entire surface black or a charcoal would you use a alkyd or C-Rubber. SW does not make a black C-Rubber. If I find a company who has it will it stick to the oil spots on the lot? What is the best way to clean the lot? We are in the Southwest and the weather is dry so humidity should not be a problem unless it rains. Is There a better way to solve this problem other than paint? I a not very knowledgeable about seal coat or concrete Stain? Pretty much I am stuck he wants the bid in 2wks. I realize this is a inside track on a job that might even effect some of the people reading this post. But if everything goes well I will join the group as a professional and become a Operator and Owner for the long haul this time. I am borrowing this computer from a friend and I won't be able to use it again until Saturday to check for any replies. Robert I hope this post is not too long. Please reply with any suggestions. Disclaimer if anyone reading this post feels offended by this I apologize but I am hungry to get out of the Property Management Business and this might be my chance to get started on the right foot and maybe even make a dollar or two. Thank you in advance for all comments to this post. I will look forward to reading the replies on Saturday.
Thank You Very Much.
Date: 6/21/00 9:40:22 AM
My personal feeling is that painting the entire surface would be a half-a**ed way to go about it. My recommendation would be to use a proper concrete coating, preferably an epoxy. This would seal the slab, extend the life of your surface, and help alleviate further cracking due to frost-wedging. Stonhard makes an excellent product and can be had in black, gray, or just about any color you can think of. I do realize cost may be an issue though. Still, I'd recommend using a colored sealant instead of paint.
Date: 6/21/00 10:27:47 AM
So what’s wrong about being a property manager and a striper? If you work it right you will get a lot of work from regular job. Start out striping part time and if you get busy go full time. There are a lot of guys here who stripe and have a fully time job.
As far as painting the surface, you probably will be the first ice skating rink in your area when it rains. For several year people have talked about not painting large areas because of the slip and falls that come with it. It may be better to find a good sealcoater of an epoxy applicator in your area to look at this job.
Jim (Property Manager)don’t hold that against me.
Date: 6/26/00 9:23:12 PM
I intend to do just that work full time and then go off on my own. I guess it just depends on what kind of property manager you are me I am a Hotel Manager. Although it is exciting it does not leave much time for the dating game or much room for balance in life. I just got back from a two year tour in Colorado and I lost 30lbs. and gained a bleeding ulcer. So I asked to come back home as a asst. and I am starting to get balance back in my life. With striping I will have a chance to "turn it off" when I need to instead of be called at 2 am to change out a HVAC etc. Or worst called in because someone did not show to work and no matter how tired you are someone has to answer the phone and do laundry. So I guess it all depends on the kind of property one manages. Everyday I am called in it fuels the fire just a little more.
Date: 6/21/00 10:14:23 PM
WHOA!!!...........you're out of the range on everyone on this web site.....you need factory Rep involvement from the paint manufacturer!!! If its Sherwin Williams then fine.....let them call the shots.....you just apply what they say. Just make sure the property owner and the paint manufacturer are in complete agreement and tell you everything to do step by step.........I wouldn't touch that job with a ten foot pole......charge em triple, cause you'll need it for the lawyer fees.....................paint the entire parking lot!!!.......dumb as a rock!!! The Damn thing will look like a 1970 "Tie-Died Shirt in 3 years!!!
Date: 6/22/00 8:25:18 AM
Remove the unsightly areas of stripe and sealer, and repaint. Hell, diamond grind the whole lot before you paint it. I would be interested in seeing before/after and a year later pictures if you are not to busy visiting legal council. Get the owners to sign a disclaimer if you do the work.
Date: 6/22/00 12:16:34 PM
Add my vote to the hire a good lawyer replies. When it rains you'll have pedestrians falling, cars skidding everywhere and it will look like heck in a short time.
Date: 6/22/00 6:01:22 PM
without knowing the amount of linear feet of old line that is causing the problems, may I suggest a surface grinder. We usually stripe asphalt but will sometimes use our surface grinder from SASE to eradicate old lines on concrete. However, the epoxy sealer product sounds like great maintenance for your lots.
Date: 6/23/00 6:48:09 AM
Rookie, You did not give us a clue as to how much of the lot is in bad condition or how big it is. I would not paint the lot instead of collecting $$$$ you would be shelling out big $$$$ and it would not ever be right and of course you would be gone before you got started. Please leave a e-mail address, phone # or fax # as I have a couple of suggestions you might want to consider.
From: The Rookie
Date: 6/26/00 9:35:18 PM
Thank you all who posted a reply to my call for help. I really appreciate all replys this might have saved me from failing before I even got off the ground. Worst yet doing shoddy work right off the bat. I am not one who wants to have a bad rep. amongst the masses. As Fonz said I don't want it to look like a tied dyed parking lot over the next three years. I am currently search for other ways to fix the this. I did not post the size of the parking lot my bad. Each one is around 85 Spaces and approx 25000 Sq Ft. or so. I have not actually measured them all yet with drive ways etc. By the way did I do good on the striper I bought it is a Titan Promark 5500 2yrs old 2 gun the kicker is it was never used once still has tags I paid 2600.00. Was that a Good or Fair deal for a older striper? Thanks again fellows looking forward to the time I get a chance to reply with a solution for someone else.
H & C Concrete Stain
From: The Rookie
Date: 6/27/00 9:33:16 PM
Thanks Again to responded about me painting the entire surface. Has Anyone used this product before the local Sherwin Williams Dealer is now suggesting this to cover the entire parkinglot in black to cover up the black tar stripes left by the last contractor. Robert I read your last response about doing this to a tennis court. How did it work for you ? Did it cause the surface to become slick with rain etc. Did it leave a good finish on the concrete? Could you see this being used on a parkinglot in black and how hard was it to apply. What was the coverage? etc. Tell me what you think.
Date: 6/28/00 5:10:22 PM
It's a good product. I just stained a basketball court at a residence in Dallas Mavericks colors with it. The biggest drawback to your application is that traffic will wear the color sooner than you want it to. In a little while the orginal color will be showing through in heavy traffic areas. If you do decide to use it, be sure to powerwash very well, and use the oil base stain. It bonds better than the waterbased. And before you get started, make sure it will cover and bond to the crack filler.
From: the rookie
Date: 7/3/00 2:28:00 AM
Thanks for the input I will Powerwash the whole surface I think this is the best solution.
Date: 8/18/00 8:13:35 AM
I've read the posts on this from Nov. of last year. I've got a chance to do some dock aisles in a warehouse and would appreciate any advice on this. I haven't done this before. What is your process for painting these lines? Do you; -Snap the lines and tape them off using a tape mach. like the one Robert has for sale? -Remove the sealant from the concrete where paint is to be applied, does the tape stay stuck down? -Spray it using your gas sprayer? -How long can the lines be expected to hold up? -Cost wise how much difference between regular traffic paint vs. low VOC vs. enamel vs. a two part epoxy - 30%, 50%, 100% - do you charge? I would appreciate any help you could give me.
Date: 8/18/00 10:26:42 AM
We try to have the customer specify the paint - but in the absence of that, we use SW Setfast Latex then so far, the customer has applied a clearcoat in the jobs we have done. We make every disclaimer possible with regards to longevity because traffic paint is not designed for forklift traffic and pallets being scraped on it.
For charging warehouse or factory work, we charge by the linear foot and each corner (cross-hatched areas are BIG money). We shingle or tape each corner but only tape the lines where absolutely necessary. Just use your airless machine with a small tip (317 is what we use) and keep the pressure down as low as possible while still keeping the line edges crisp - always use a new unused tip in a warehouse. Remember this is a warehouse not a parking lot and it is concrete not asphalt.
If you can have the floor shot blasted and cleaned prior to painting I am sure the paint would hold better but those more experienced with painting on concrete can speak to that better than I.
Date: 8/18/00 6:11:54 PM
The real key is the shot-blasting, or removing the cement sealer BEFORE painting.
Then most "pavement" paints will hold.
My experience is with a successful paint called TMT Pathways paint out of Los Angeles, CA.
Date: 8/19/00 3:44:33 PM
Good information provided by Randy and ATS.
Basically, what the customer is willing to spend will determine will determine the level of service you're able to provide:
1. Standard traffic paint: least expensive, easiest to apply, least durability, will look good only long enough to get through an upcoming inspection. 2. Low VOC : still inexpensive, still easy to apply, only slightly better durability, looks great as it dries with a slight gloss. 3. Add a shotblast and reseal treatment to 1. and 2. Sealing over the new lines greatly improves durability and is an easy process. 4. Top o' the line: Shotblast, epoxy paint, reseal. Most expensive, some 2-part paints can be difficult to work with, excellent durability (3-8 years).
As for actually doing the work: We use chalk, but rechalk the line every snap as some of it will blow away when you paint, use existing columns and walls when doing your layout, thin your paint slightly, use a brand new tip, tape your corners (apply tape once the first line of a corner has been painted; use med/high tack masking tape; press down edges well) , tape the starts and/or stops of any line that does not tie into another as well, have your straightest and most accurate painter do the work. A floor cleaning service should be employed prior to any work.
Warehouse floors are one of those things the requires great meticulousness, but can bring a lot of work your way if you can do them well. We have some big ticket customers that fly us all over the country for our top of the line treatment. Best of luck!! Lemme know if you have any more questions. =)
Date: 12/6/99 5:59:21 PM
I have striped several warehouse floors and have not found a good paint that will hold up to the heavy traffic of forklifts. The floors have been previously sealed with epoxy, I think, and the paint just can't bite. I know that the floor can be stripped with acid or sand blasted but, I'd rather just find a good type of paint. Is there such a paint?
From: Robert Liles
Date: 12/8/99 6:34:32 AM
So far I have had good results with Sherwin-Williams POLY-LON® 1900 POLYESTER POLYURETHANE. It's a 2 part paint that bonds well to slick concrete. It has a gloss finish that resists black tire marks.
Date: 12/8/99 7:40:30 AM
Does the 2 part Sherwin Williams spray good in an airless (Graco 3500)?
Date: 12/8/99 7:41:52 AM
Does the Sherwin-Williams POLY-LON® 1900 POLYESTER POLYURETHANE 2 part paint spray well in an airless machine? We use a Graco 3500.
Date: 12/8/99 10:06:31 AM
Another good paint to use is a 100% acrylic. I use Aexel brand "Gorilla" but Safety Coatings also makes it. You can clean out with toluene or xylene.
From: Robert Liles
Date: 12/8/99 6:46:09 PM
Yes!! We used a GRACO 3900 with a 2-15 tip and painted great looking 2" lines. You might even use a smaller tip, we were walking fast to get the proper film build...but we like to go fast anyway.
Warehouse striping 101
From: Line-Tech(Iowa boy)
Date: 12/9/99 4:10:39 PM
I am in my first year of striping which is over now due to temps in the teens. tell me more about warehouse striping! What are the biggest differences between warehouse and parking lots? I suppose I can give up my soap and water waterborne if it means paying the bills! I use a Graco 3900.Will there be anything at the NPE on warehouse floors? I'm planning on attending the workshop and seminars on striping. Thanks, Matt
Date: 12/10/99 11:35:58 AM
Matt, Be careful with warehouse floors. Sometimes you can't just go in and stripe. A lot of warehouses are swept with products like "floor sweep" or "floor shine". Make sure any of this stuff is removed before you stripe. If you find it difficult to maneuver the large striper around the area, you might think about using an aerosol striper. The striping paint from Fox Valley seems to hold up pretty good. To get perfect lines, make sure you get one with the little round shrouds and use the tape method like Robert shows in his sport court section.
Good Luck ytoes
Date: 5/2/00 10:45:30 PM
I've yet to find a good method to paint warehouse striping so it would hold up to fork-lift traffic and pallet scrapes.
I wonder if you could scarify or shot blast a concrete floor to give it some "tooth" so it would accept a stain process -- then possibly seal it in?
Warehouse Safety Lines
Date: 11/21/99 9:12:42 PM
We have recently completed a large hatched walkway in a busy grocery distribution warehouse. The floor was cleaned, acid etched, etch primed, and sprayed with yellow enamel paint. The company two weeks later asked for me to return claiming up to 70% of lines had gone. A inspection revealed that the lines were 100% intact but had turned black, from forklift tyres leaving a layer of rubber buildup. This is also occurring on unpainted parts of the concrete floor. The company is threatening not to pay !! but I claim that it is not our fault and that they should clean the floor revealing my work. Any suggestions, the worst of the blacking occurs only in the high traffic and turning areas and a simple scratch with a screwdriver reveals the bright yellow beneath. I think it's a tyre problem rather than a paint problem. Thanks to all those that reply.
Date: 11/21/99 9:13:34 PM
Check out your local airport maintenance department for the name of the product used for removing rubber buildup from runway markings. You may even be able to buy some from them, since I don't think it comes in less than 55-gallon drums. Call Alan Heydorn at Pavement Maintenance Magazine to find the product. Johnson Hill Press also publishes a concrete magazine, and I bet the product is advertised in it. Ask you attorney to construct a disclaimer to use in all your future proposals/bids. Hope you took a photograph of the work for your possible lawsuit.
Date: 11/21/99 9:14:36 PM
Yes, warehouse lines can be a very intricate and intensive learning experience. You have to be up-front with your customers about what kind of quality and durability can be expected prior to doing the work. I do about 2 dozen warehouses a year, including the cold storage for beverage and grocery/seafood distributors, and the Kenworth production facility. Forklifts are savage destructors. We generally give our customers a list of options when it comes to having their floors striped, depending upon expected durability and cost. It sounds like you did an excellent job of preparing the floor. The paint just could not be expected to withstand the conditions. - Common traffic paint can be applied cheaply, but it will show every skid from every tire that turns on it, and may seems to lose luster as dust collects on it. Unfortunately, it cannot be entirely rejuvenated even if cleaned. It is fine for perimeter sanitation lines where there is no traffic. - A low VOC paints, for a bit more money, look great. Has a bit of a gloss, when new, and is usually a bit brighter in color. They will resist the black skid marks better, but have a tendency to deform elastically leaving areas of smudging. And, of course, must be given a greater amount of time to dry sufficiently. - Enamels are striking in appearance, can be selected for varying dry times, but again, show skids, and on seldom occasion can chip when forks are dropped on them. - The Cadillac is a 2-part epoxy paint. Nice color and luster, best durability (though not flawless), and can be cleaned relatively well. Costco likes to go this route, but then, they are willing to pay for it too. The best thing you can do to help any selection last and maintain it's appearance, is to top dress it with some type of sealant. Shellac can be an inexpensive option. For new construction, we insist on striping the floors before the concrete floors get their final seal. It comes down to a matter of cost. Again, be up front about what kind of results they can realistically expect.
Date: 11/21/99 9:15:41 PM
I have had the same problem with my paint becoming blackened by tires in garages. I use Sherwin Williams low VOC Alkyd for all my concrete jobs. Should I spray shellac over all my lines too? Does shellac keep the lines bright in color? What is common practice, just tell each customer that the lines will look old after a week? I have to stripe a small garage in a couple days, the customer is pressure washing the floor because it is very dusty , I already told the customer that the lines will scuff from tires soon after they're painted but the lines will hold up, just look dirty. What should I do for my next customer??
Date: 1/4/01 9:58:43 PM
I found that the use of some type of sealant can be helpful. the cheapest way that works for me is to get a oilbase sealant mix it with your oilbase traffic paint takes longer to dry comes out mint
WAREHOUSE FLOOR BID
Date: 8/30/00 9:14:44 PM
I'M BIDDING 2 WAREHOUSES 1-WITH 18,000 LIN FT OF LINE AND 1 WITH 40,000 LIN. FT OF 4" LINE. MOST LINES 75-100' LONG. SPEC. CALLS FOR MILLING OFF THE CLEAR CONCRETE SEALER. HOW LONG SHOULD IT TAKE TO MILL (1,000 LIN. FT).1/16" DEEP WITH A 10 HP 10" PLANER. THE PLANER WILL BE SET UP FOR A 5" LINE. PLANER WILL HAVE 3 SETS OF SCARFIRES. THE CONCRETE IS ABOUT 3 MONTHS OLD...........I HAVE USED ACID IN THE PAST TO ETCH THE CONCRETE SEALER SHOULD I SELL THEM ON THIS??..........
Date: 8/31/00 12:20:54 AM
According to Sherwin Williams, you don't have to scarify or "plane off" 1/16" About a year ago, I did about a city block worth of striping for Dallas Area Rapid Transit. I scarified the surface just enough so the new paint would have something to hold on to. I then covered it with SW terazzo sealer. It is constantly subjected to forklift traffic but it is staying just fine. I would like to hear more about your experience with acid etching. Please email me...
Date: 11/21/99 9:25:17 PM
I just painted a concrete garage using VOC compliant alkyd by Sherwin Williams.... and then there were bubbles. I noticed where the paint was thicker on some stencils the bubbles were larger but mostly they stayed consistently small on the lines. Should I have cranked the pressure lower? What went wrong???
Date: 11/21/99 9:25:48 PM
Don't worry about it TOO much. This will happen when painting on fresh concrete, occasionally... especially if you are using a high-solids paint and it is a hot day. It's just the concrete trying to aspirate. It's like putting a plastic bag over your head. (please do not try this at home) The bubbles should settle down as the paint continues to dry. You do need to be a little bit careful though. Although we all want to give our customer a good quality job, if the initial coat of paint on new concrete is too thick, those bubbles will becomes flakes later on. Thinning your paint just a bit will help, and remember - not TOO thick.
Date: 11/21/99 9:26:13 PM
I did the same thing on a project 2 years ago. Come to find out there was curing compound on the concrete which had to be removed and repainted with no problem or bubbles.
Date: 11/22/99 5:01:08 PM
I have been using a couple of different products to clean the oil spots before striping but not very happy. What are some of the products you are using and does it work?
Date: 11/22/99 7:12:26 PM
We use an alkaline detergent from Delco Cleaning Systems. It's call R202. Works better than anything else we've tried. If you clean oil spots very often you should get a hot water washer...works much quicker. Delco's web site is www.dcs1.com BTW- They have a discussion group for power washers.
Best paint to apply on a concrete surface
Date: 3/30/00 3:13:02 PM
Need help on finding a good looking/durable paint to apply on concrete parking lot surface. I am Not happy with the waterbased latex for this application, and SW has discontinued their chlorinated rubber according to my local store. Your help would be appreciated.
Date: 3/30/00 11:17:29 PM
Our best luck has been with Sherwin-Williams Set-Fast Acrylic overall. However we disclaim any new concrete work ( as far as warranty) because new concrete always depends on the alkali content of the concrete... and a striper has no way of knowing that. Sometimes Chlorinated rubber works better or regular oil base, you can't be sure. We have had some large lots (where they were done in different pours) where the paint did great on one slab and wore out in a couple of months on the one right next to it. All because of different alkali contents in the batch. In general we use the SW paint above on most concrete and a C-Rubber or Alkyd if it's older concrete or has any oil film.
Date: 3/31/00 7:35:56 AM
Don, When You say "new" concrete what do you mean by new? 1 month, 3 months, 6 months? Before you would warranty your work. Thanks
Date: 3/31/00 8:00:46 AM
It depends... usually 1-3 months depending on the weather. We try to give it time for the surface alkali to wear or wash off. However we did a lot once where there were 4 small parking areas (5-10 stalls each) and storefront parking. The outlying areas never had a problem. Of course the problem was right in front of the store entrance. We repainted that slab 4 times in the first year and twice the second with every different trick and type of paint we could think of. And that slab was 2 months old when we painted it. The rest of the stalls lasted almost 2 years. That's the worst case we've ever had. I would love to hear it if anyone knew a sure way to tell.